35Mm Black And White Film Landscape Photography

September 9, 2018 3:40 am by columnblogger

35Mm Black And White Film Landscape Photography

DX barcode numbers on 135 film (please contribute) 148 replies

Shooting at night on a film Hasselblad, Kenna used a heavy neutral density filter to give him a shutter speed of up to eight hours! It’s unconventional and requires much patience, but the results are incredible.

So, if you can’t rely on colour to make your photograph for you, what do you use instead?

hi guys, just started shooting film. my first roll was developed and scanned by …

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Roelli pan 25 and Acros in rodinal 1:100 74 months ago (permalink)

The rules of composition apply just as much whether you’re shooting a colour or black and white landscape. Leading lines, patterns, natural framing, placing the horizon, and varying your viewpoint are all things to keep in mind when framing your shot.

STICKY Your cameras that are not shot on film. A.K.A. Camera porn 112 replies

A small, lightweight tripod can be strapped onto the back and you’re good to go. Make sure you have a decent pair of hiking boots too.

Most tripods come with a built-in spirit level to ensure your horizons are straight, but if it doesn’t, it’s well worth investing in one.

Even better, the histogram gives you an at-a-glance visual representation of the tonal value of your shot, so you’re able to judge whether or not you need to adjust your exposure.

By identifying the darkest zones in a scene and ensuring that those shadow areas would keep some detail through careful exposure, he was able to manipulate his negative and print developing to make sure the highlights would also retain details.

The zone system is just as relevant today as it was all those decades ago, except with digital photography, it’s the highlights in a scene we need to be more concerned with when we’re shooting.

Strong side lighting, or even backlighting, can pick out the texture of an object beautifully.

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A bright sky above a dark ground can give a dynamic range outside the latitude your sensor can deal with.

Bear in mind that you could well be hiking a fair distance before you reach the ideal spot to shoot from, so try and find a good compromise between strength and weight.

In black and white landscape photography, the golden hour is no longer the golden rule. That gorgeous orange cast over your scene, once it’s reduced to a series of greys, will have lost all of its dramatic impact and produced a flat, uninspiring monochrome image.

Also, just because you’re shooting landscapes, don’t be afraid to experiment with portrait format. Let the scene dictate what will look best.

And, as mentioned before, landscape photography allows for longer shutter speeds, and unless you want to freeze action in your shot, you can set a shutter speed that gives you the exposure you want as you’re keeping the ISO low and aperture appropriately small.

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In Photoshop, the black and white adjustment gives you a decent amount of control over the tones in your photograph. Playing around with the sliders also helps to show how different colours appear in a monochrome image.

To get the best tonal range in your black and white landscape photography it can often be necessary to use filters, especially if the scene is a particularly high contrast one.

Many DSLRs have a monochrome mode, allowing you to shoot in black and white in camera.

Spotting occasions that will translate successfully to black and white takes some practice.

One of the best things about landscape photography is the relatively small amount of kit you need to haul about with you. While the right accessories will always help, there’s no real need for flashguns, remote triggers or cumbersome telephoto zooms that will just weigh you down.

Every landscape photographer’s kitbag will also contain a range of non-graduated filters.

When Ansel Adams started Group f/64, a collective of famous landscape photographers, along with Edward Weston, Imogen Cunningham, and Willard Van Dyke among others, he took the name from the tiny apertures he and his fellows would use to make sure that every part of their images were pin sharp.

My opinion is to favour Pan F+ at 50 ASA developed in Rodinal or even Microphen. 74 months ago (permalink)

There’s nothing better than heading out at the crack of dawn, or even earlier, to photograph your favourite location bathed in the soft glow of the golden hour, that all too brief period at the start and end of the day that was just made for landscape photography.

As always no comment just the photos. Use your imagination and 2 per month.

I hope you enjoy having a read through and you find some inspiration to get out there with your camera and capture some beautiful shots.

If you’re looking for inspiration for the effect long exposure times combined with neutral density filters can have on landscapes, check out the work of Michael Kenna.

These filters are opaque at the top, fading to clear at the bottom. They cut down on the amount of light reaching the sensor from the sky while allowing the exposure for the ground to stay the same.

That doesn’t mean disregarding the colours in front of us altogether. With experience, you will see how the hue of certain elements, such as green grass or a blue sky, translate into different brightness of tone in a black and white image.

Wide angle lenses are obviously the most popular choice for landscape photographers. On a full frame DSLR, my 16mm-35mm is enough coverage for most situations, and I have a 24mm-70mm when I want to single out a particular element in a scene.

The earliest photograph ever taken was a black and white landscape. Since then, the world’s finest photographers have turned this photography niche into an art form.

It’s a wonderfully impressive platform and well worth a look.

This thread is for questions, experiences and tips relating to C41 and E6 home f…

For a greater level of creativity, I’m a big fan of the Silver Efex Pro 2 plugin from Nik. Now owned by Google, you can download their whole suite of tools for free.

Thanks folks. @inetjoker, Didn’t mention camera but did say 35mm in the title, Mostly my F3 or XD-11 @ [email protected] Paul Langmead, I tried the CMS 20 about a year ago. Didn’t have a ton of success with the dedicated developer. but my last roll was developed caffinol and it came out superb. Maybe have to try that again. 74 months ago (permalink)

Tonality is often more important then resolution. The problem with Technical Pan , CMS 20, ATP1.1, ortho film etc. is to have a good tonality and to tame the contrast of these films.A good regular iso 25 film can be 180lp/mm, ortho around 300lp/mm and micro film over 400lp/mm which is even more then a top Leica or Zeiss lens can handle. But micro film is difficult to handle in harsh light situations, in fact then impossible to get a good tonal range.Going back to CMS 20 it’s an ortho sensitized microfilm with effective 3-6 iso. ATP1.1 (Rollei, in fact from Agfa Gevaert) has extended Red like Kodak Tech Pan but has about the same problems when working with Tech Pan (Kodak). 74 months ago (permalink)

To do so, he divided each scene up into ten zones, with pure black being zero and pure white being ten. By standardising the process, he was able to create perfectly exposed images in any lighting conditions.

Having a RAW colour image gives you a lot more options when it comes time to perfect your shot.

I was given a few working Film and Digital Canon EOS type mount cameras r…

You can alter every part of your image quickly and easily, darkening certain elements or changing contrast wherever you like. There are also 20 presets that emulate the effects of some of the most popular black and white films, ranging from Ilford Pan F technical film through to the ultra-grainy Kodak P3200 TMAX pro.

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We also have a few advantages Ansel Adams couldn’t have even dreamed of.

Everything you need—camera, lenses, cards, filters and a spare battery—will fit nicely in a backpack style camera bag, and probably leave you room for a few snacks!

Where he exposed his incredible landscapes to save the shadows and pulled the brightest areas back with filters and darkroom magic, we need to do the opposite. By carefully exposing to keep the brightest parts of your image intact, there is more chance that the shadows can be saved in post production.

But while that may be the key to a great colour image, for those of us wanting to create stunning black and white shots, we need to start thinking a little differently.

Your opinion. Best fine grain B&W film for landscape/scenic shots (35mm)

If you have yet to try your hand at this exciting form of photography, or would just like some advice on how to get the most out of your time in the wilderness, I’ve come up with a list of some of my favourite tips below.

If you’re in Europe then the Adox/Efke (I believe 25ASA adox/Efke is the same as the Rollei) film is very nice. CMS20 with their custom Developer. Can be a little contrasty though, as it is a plan film with a special developer. They claim 8000 dpi, and even half of that would be impressive. 74 months ago (permalink)

The best black and white landscape photographs have a strong range of tones, from almost pure white through to deep, rich black and everything in between. That contrast across the image, when used well, can produce some striking results.

Black and white landscape photography remains one of the most popular genres in the medium today. From the complete novice all the way through to the modern masters.

To help balance the two elements and give an image that retains detail in both highlights and shadow, you can fit a graduated neutral density filter over your lens while you’re shooting.

Yes, Pan F+ for me too at ISO 50 developed in Adolux APH09 1+50. 74 months ago (permalink)

I’m getting ready to develop some PanF+ in Kodak d-76 1:1. I’ve done this befor…

Whereas using a very fast film could give some interesting grainy effects, a high ISO shot on a DSLR will be plagued with a lot of ugly digital noise.

For Adams, shooting on large format negative film, his motto was ‘expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights’.

While it can be a useful tool when you’re pre-visualising a scene, I would always recommend shooting in RAW wherever possible, and converting that file to black and white in post production.

Been meaning to try the more current – and available, b&w films that are deemed contenders to Kodak Techpan but haven’t yet. Any published tests on this that I can compare to?Used an ISO12233 Reschart arranged 4 wide 4 high using the same 50mm f4 macro lens on both my 14.6MP Pentax K20D and Pentax LX with Kodak Techpan @ ISO25 processed in Technidol. I also “scanned” the film with the K20D at about 4.5 magnification using my Pentax Bellows which looks similar to >8000dpi scan or humongous enlargement. 74 months ago (permalink)

The world around us is full of texture, both the natural as well as the man-made aspects of it. In black and white landscape photography, we can use the difference in texture between, say, a craggy cliff face and a smooth sea, to create another sort of contrast.

But when shooting monochrome, it’s also important to always be thinking about how the tones of the scene in front of you will look in the final image.

These are uniformly grey and reduce the amount of light passing through the whole of the lens. They are used to increase exposure times across the entire scene and are often used when photographing moving elements in a landscape photograph.

Most recentish 135 film has a DX barcode on the cartridge, usually with a six di…

Each colour will be represented by a different shade, and hitting a pleasing balance across each element will make for a more successful result.

The lightest, strongest tripods around today are made from carbon fibre, but have the drawback of being very much at the more expensive end of the market. Aluminium models from the likes of Manfrotto are a little heavier, but are plenty sturdy enough and won’t break the bank.

Film is only part of the equation. Format? Camera? Lens? Other Filters? Tripod? Developer with the film? Shot at what E.I?…. Rule #1… Sticky 2 here… 74 months ago (permalink)

Ansel Adams was possibly the greatest, and definitely the most famous, landscape photographer of all time.

Without going totally exotic my pick is Pan F+. Gives me the best combination of tones and fine grain. Shot a roll today @ ISO 25 with a green filter and developed it in Tmax 1-5, 75 degrees F (64c) for 3.5 minutes. Nice tones and that combo kept the contrast in check.I like Tmax 100 for cityscapes as it has for my eyes a certain graphic look but not as much for nature. Wondering what your favorite landscape film/developer combo is. Originally posted at 8:16PM, 4 July 2012 PDT (permalink) Austinite3333 edited this topic 74 months ago.

We can’t pick one as we get so many in a day or even hour. So I Ask the memb…

Pan F+ for me, too, at ISO 25 but processed with Perceptol @ 1+2 for 11 min at 72F. This gives all the shadows and highlights for a typical moutain scene out here in the west USA. 74 months ago (permalink)

Setting a small aperture will help you do the same, and keep your shot in focus from front to back. Of course, there will come times when you may want to blur certain parts of a shot for creative reasons, so play around with different depths of field until you get the look you want.

It’s an unwritten rule that the further you have to walk to get your shot, the better it will be!

A great black and white landscape has a real elegance about it. The more time you spend practising creating these images yourself, the more thoroughly you’ll understand how tone, contrast, and texture play in making successful images. Do it enough and you’ll soon be making some stunning black and white landscape photos of your own.

Colour shows us a place as it is. Black and white landscape photographs have a pure and timeless quality that cannot be matched.

In the hands of geniuses such as Ansel Adams and Edward Weston, it has produced some of the most memorable images of all time.

Equal parts artist and scientist, he developed the zone system in the 1930s as a way to exercise complete control over the tones in the images he was producing.

Beware of diffraction, which is a loss of sharpness that can occur at very small apertures. In general, diffraction starts to come into play around f/22 and smaller. Lenses vary, though, so you should experiment to see how small you can get your aperture before you start to lose image quality with yours.

Most DSLRs have shadow and highlight warnings on the LCD image that blink when a scene is straying outside the boundaries the sensor can cope with.

You’ll no doubt have heard of the zone system. If you haven’t, I’m sure you’ll recognise the name of the man who invented it.

In a perfect world, I’d have a range of fixed prime lenses for the very best image sharpness, but a good quality zoom lens is almost as good.

[Read through our in-depth guide to choosing tripods for landscape photography for more information and recommendations. —Ed.]

STICKY Theme of the month August 2018 Into the shadows. 15 replies

Between a low ISO and a small aperture, there won’t be a huge amount of light making its way onto your sensor. That usually adds up to a longer shutter speed, one that prohibits handheld shots, so a sturdy tripod is going to be essential.

Just as Adams’s black and white film had a finite dynamic range in the number of different tones it could record, so do the sensors on our digital cameras.

We are all obviously used to seeing the full spectrum of colours, so it takes a little effort to train our brains to think about a scene in terms of highlights and shadows.

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Does anybody have any examples of this? I’ve read bits and pieces scattered t…

Tmax 100 or Acros 100. if you want slower than that you need to start looking at the technical films. the grain structure of panf is similar to that of acros anyway, and in my opinion the tonality of acros wins every time. 74 months ago (permalink)

They are available in a number of different strengths and are a godsend on those bright, sunny days.

Regular slower then iso 100 B&W films:Ilford PAN F+, Efke 25-50, Rollei PAN 25 (last version = Efle 25). When you want to go slower you’re entering the area of micro type films: Adox CMS 20, Rollei ATP1.1 but then you need special low contrast type developers. You can also look at the Ortho 25 films. But also here you need for landscape photography a lower contrast type developer. 74 months ago (permalink)

I would always recommend shooting with as low an ISO as possible to maintain image fidelity, too.

Consider the effects of a long shutter speed on, say, the ocean—the water becomes beautifully smooth and gives a wonderful aesthetic quality.

My goal is to change the ISF banner every month with a member’s image. If I chan…