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Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots can work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider area than they would with a short exposure and this may help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If required , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to decrease exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). typically , when exposures extend beyond on the subject of in connection with 1/60 sec a tripod is required to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.

Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all decreased to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would at once be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and colorless straight from the camera. happily , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours discretely to introduce some contrast. However, a good starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some powerful blacks and whites. This may be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, could inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the greatest composition.

Shoot RAW + JPEG. The greatest monochrome conversions are arrived at by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome picture Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As many photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. most cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact fashion cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users can also do this if they kick in her camera’s live sneaking suspicion pathway , but the usually slower responses mean that most will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.

Take Control. Although coloured filters can still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more prominent to save this work until the processing stage. Until a a couple years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the favorite means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more forceful tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust single of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as crafty gradations can become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or rosy shirt with the red sliding control, for moment , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls should also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create delineation between objects of the same brightness but with varied colours.

Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a roadway that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers should only hope of because you may target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you could use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to brighten up them to increase local contrast. It’s a good track of sharing a sense of superior sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you could set the opacity of the tools, you can build up his effect gradually so the impact is crafty and there are no hard edges.

Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are just as advantageous in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more advantageous . An ND grad is collaborative when you want to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter should be used to reduce reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, judge taking two or more shots with unique exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be afraid to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, could also be useful for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of his opposite colour while lightening objects of her own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green one will lighten foliage.

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But if you’re not up for investing in a second camera, then a stereo lens could be the way to go. These lenses can split your camera’s view into two separate angles.

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As new equipment and software have made it easier for anyone to become an amateur photographer, 3D pictures can help set your online photography portfolio apart from the rest. Showcasing a wide range of different types of photography on your portfolio is also a great way to show potential clients what a skilled shooter you are. And 3D pictures in particular can be quite the attention-grabber! Want to learn how to create 3D pictures? Let’s get started with the 3D photography basics!

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If you’ve gone the old-school route, make sure to let people know! When you post a 3D picture to your portfolio, mention that it was created from two images. This little detail will show visitors how much skill goes into shooting your 3D images (much more impressive than if you simply used an app that does it automatically).

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One benefit of Facebook’s 3D photo feature is it doesn’t require viewers to do anything special. As they scroll through their newsfeeds normally, the 3D images will shift as they go by. It’s really effective at grabbing people’s attention, so it’s a great idea to start including 3D images in your Facebook posts to help draw people to your online portfolio.

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Then you put the photos together in editing, and display them in a way that allows the viewer’s left eye to only see the left angle image, and the right eye to see only right angle image.

Technology has seriously changed the world of photography in recent years—now, professional photographers need to put more effort into wowing potential clients than ever before.

The traditional way of creating a 3D image is to capture two photos from slightly different angles to simulate the way our eyes perceive depth. If you’re shooting a stationary subject, that can be done by simply moving the camera slightly to the side in between shots. If you’re trying to get a 3D action shot, you’re going to want a dual-camera setup so you can capture the two angles simultaneously.

Now that you’re ready to get out there and start creating great 3D images, don’t forget to upload them to your online portfolio.

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There are a number of options for how to display your 3D images; some will be better suited to your online portfolio because they don’t require any effort or equipment from the viewer.

No matter how you decide to display your 3D pictures, the traditional techniques to capture them remain the same. Here are some of the basics to keep in mind:

Choose a subject with depth. If you shoot a person standing with their back against a wall, you’re kind of defeating the purpose of 3D photography, because the effect won’t be as strong as it could be. For the best results, capture a scene that has some elements that are very close, some in the middle ground, and some far away.

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The black and white allows your photo to reveal its natural beauty, bringing out the contrasts of light. This lack of colors allows the eye to capture the essence of your photo without being distracted.

There are many apps that can help with creating 3D picture effects. Photoshop is a great choice for putting your images together since it offers so many capabilities to tweak the final product to your liking.

One specialized type of 3D photography is 3D modeling, and it can make a very cool addition to your online portfolio. It involves taking multiple pictures from angles all around an object, and then using software to stitch them together into a 3D model, just like the ones used in digital animation.

The right amount of separation between the two images will depend on how close your subject is. If you’re shooting something far away, your photos will need more separation to achieve a 3D photo effect. So, shooting your subjects from closer is better. A good place to start when shooting something close is using the distance between the average person’s pupils, which is about 2.5 inches.

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One of the most well-known photographers of monochromatic imagery is Ansel Adams, whose name is practically synonymous with black and white landscape photography. Several well-known photojournalists used the medium to document current events. Dorothea Lange is known for “Migrant Mother” (1936) and other images of life during the Great Depression, Robert Capa is famed for his war photo essays like “Capturing the Truth,” and Ernest Cole and David Goldblatt photographed apartheid life in South Africa. Modernist photographer Alfred Stieglitz is credited with producing the first abstract photographs in his “Equivalents” series (1925-1934), which depicted the sky and clouds. Famous black and white photographs include Robert Doisneau’s iconic “Kiss by the Town Hall” (1950) and artist Cindy Sherman’s “Untitled Film Stills” self-portrait series (1977-1980). Other photographers famed for their black and white photography include Diane Arbus, Robert Mapplethorpe, Man Ray, Raoul Hausmann, Brassai, Seydou Keita, Malick Sidibe, Ray K. Metzker, Jacques Henri Lartigue, Henri Cartier-Bresson, and fashion photographer Herb Ritts.

Keep your subject in the center of the frame. This maximizes the 3D photo effect and can help as a reference point to make sure both images are framed properly. If your separate shots aren’t lined up right, you’ll just end up with a blurry image instead of a 3D photo effect.

Some people simply post their images side by side and instruct viewers to cross their eyes to see the image in 3D. This is not the best method to achieve those 3D picture effects. For one thing, it has the potential to make the viewer’s eyes sore. But, more importantly, it doesn’t give you the chance to show off your photo editing skills! To someone who’s quickly browsing through your portfolio, it will just look like two identical photos side by side.

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When it comes to shooting moving subjects, a dual-camera setup or a stereo lens is needed. This equipment will enable you to capture shots from two angles simultaneously. There are dual camera mounts available online that will allow you to mount two cameras on a single tripod.

The history of black and white photography originated in ancient times with the advent of the camera obscura, but the development of the medium did not really take off until the early 1800s. The refinement of the camera arose from a series of experiments, beginning with Thomas Wedgwood’s silver nitrate paper method. In the 1820s, Nicephore Niepce successfully created a photograph, though the process took days to complete and only produced negatives. His partner Louis Daguerre yielded better results with his well-known daguerreotype process, which was introduced to the public in 1839. This invention sparked a high demand for portraiture. Later experiments shortened exposure time and improved the formal qualities of photographs. Photographer Sergei Lvovich Levitsky introduced the use of interchangeable backdrops for photo shoots and retouched negatives to remove any imperfections. By 1884, portable film replaced glass plates, and soon after, the first Kodak cameras were sold. As cameras and film became more accessible to the public, black and white photographic art developed both inside and outside the studio. Today the tradition continues on both digital and analog platforms.

Photographers can choose to start with a color photo, then dramatically alter the overall effect using digital conversion to grayscale or edit their black and white photography with color accents. Conversely, those who prefer analog photography may choose to shoot using black and white film. Although the virtues of film over digital in the realm of black and white photography is highly debatable, some analog enthusiasts cite such subtleties as film grain, dynamic range (i.e. whiter whites and blacker blacks), and more detailed highlights as top reasons for shooting with black and white film. Photographers may also decide to manipulate their black and white photographs. Surrealist photographers, for example, used techniques like multiple exposures, brulage (in which the negative is heated and partially burned), and solarization (in which the color tones are reversed), to achieve an uncanny effect in their works. Regardless of the process, many contemporary fine-art photographers still choose to use some level of digital image editing for enhancement. 

It might also be good to pick an online portfolio with a built-in blog. This way, you can share your process of how you create all your cool 3D pictures. (Maybe even write a case study!).

There are many ways to create 3D images using different camera setups and software. For example, it’s possible to create a 3D picture from a single image in Photoshop. But that takes some more work in post-production—and it isn’t nearly as satisfying as the traditional techniques!

If you choose a portfolio site that makes it simple to embed a video, then it will be a piece of cake to show off your 3D models. Here’s an example of one photographer who uses a video on his website to show the 3D models he’s created.

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Also, just try the Sepia effect to give an awesome brown color to your pictures.

One of the simplest and cheapest ways to display your 3D pictures is to use Photoshop to add a red tint to one image and a cyan tint to the other(check out this tutorial on how to do that), and have the viewer wear those classic red-cyan 3D glasses. One downside of this method is the 3D picture effect works best on images that are black and white, or at least have a lot of contrast.

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There are also simple 3D photo apps that can create 3D images automatically, right on your phone. One example is 3D Camera. This free Android app can produce decent 3D pictures from a single image. You can then choose if you want the 3D photo to be viewable with red-cyan glasses or as an animated image that can be viewed in any picture browser.

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To learn more, take a look at our beginner’s guide to buying the right photography equipment.

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For more info on choosing cameras, check out our guides on the best cameras for portraits and the best cameras for landscapes.

If you don’t have an online portfolio yet, then it’s high time you built one! It’s easy to do as long as you choose the right website builder. Some of the features you should look for include customizable themes with flexible layouts and a free trial so you can see if it’s right for you.

Black and white photography is a truly timeless medium. Line, texture, contrast, and tone are dramatically brought to the fore in monochromatic images. Even today, long after the advent of color film, some photographers still choose to work exclusively in B&W for how it allows them to portray their subjects in new, often surprising ways. Whether you’re looking for exclusive, limited edition black and white prints or high quality poster-sized prints, we’re confident that Saatchi Art’s global selection of black & white photography for sale contains works that suit your personal style and space. 

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  • Take your photos starting from the left and then moving to the right. By always taking your photos in the same order, it will make it easier during editing because you’ll always know which is the right angle and which is the left without needing to closely look at every image you took.
  • The right amount of separation between the two images will depend on how close your subject is. If you’re shooting something far away, your photos will need more separation to achieve a 3D photo effect. So, shooting your subjects from closer is better. A good place to start when shooting something close is using the distance between the average person’s pupils, which is about 2.5 inches.
  • Take more than two images. Then, during editing, you can choose the best two images for your 3D picture.
  • Make sure you use the same camera settings for both images. If you make adjustments between shots, like tweaking the white balance or exposure, the final product won’t look right.
  • Choose a subject with depth. If you shoot a person standing with their back against a wall, you’re kind of defeating the purpose of 3D photography, because the effect won’t be as strong as it could be. For the best results, capture a scene that has some elements that are very close, some in the middle ground, and some far away.
  • Keep your subject in the center of the frame. This maximizes the 3D photo effect and can help as a reference point to make sure both images are framed properly. If your separate shots aren’t lined up right, you’ll just end up with a blurry image instead of a 3D photo effect.

In addition, the latest phones with dual cameras are making it easier than ever to capture 3D photos. So if you’re due for a phone upgrade, that’s something to keep in mind.

One essential piece of equipment when shooting 3D pictures is a good tripod. As you move your camera into a different position to capture a different angle, a tripod will help you keep the camera at the right height and keep your shot properly framed.

Facebook recently added a new 3D photo feature. You post an image like normal, but when you scroll by them, drag on them, or tilt your phone, the image shifts angles as in a 3D picture. It uses a special system that takes advantage of dual camera phones. To capture a scene, users move their phone around as it captures two images every second to create an accurate depth map. That depth map is then used to stitch the images together into a 3D image.

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If you’re deciding on a new camera and are wondering what makes a good 3D photography camera, there aren’t any special considerations to take into account. Really—any camera can do it! To get the best results with your 3D pictures, as with any type of photography, you can look for a camera with a high-quality sensor and large ISO range so you can capture detailed shots in any light.

Take your photos starting from the left and then moving to the right. By always taking your photos in the same order, it will make it easier during editing because you’ll always know which is the right angle and which is the left without needing to closely look at every image you took.

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One example is what is sometimes called wiggle 3D. This involves creating a GIF from your separate images that switches back and forth between the different angles. The result is that the picture seems to wiggle, providing a 3D effect. Here are some great examples of wiggle 3D pictures using this technique, and here are some simple tutorials on how to do it.

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Want more ideas for cool photos you can add to your portfolio? Using Hard Light to Challenge Your Photography 20 Cool Self-Portrait Ideas The Beginner’s Guide to Choosing a Photography Style

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Take more than two images. Then, during editing, you can choose the best two images for your 3D picture.

We can’t wait to see all your amazing, mind-bending 3D photos!

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Make sure you use the same camera settings for both images. If you make adjustments between shots, like tweaking the white balance or exposure, the final product won’t look right.

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The Black & White effect is equivalent to place your photo in gray scale. Your photos will be wonderful when edited with greeting cards, wedding announcements, birth announcements, scrapbooking or simply to be used in a personal or professional document.

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