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Black And White Art Style.

Shoot RAW + JPEG. The unsurpassed monochrome conversions are stumbled on by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome photograph Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As many photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. many cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact attribute cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users should also do this if they kick in their camera’s live image oddity , but the usually slower responses mean that numerous will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.

Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all reduced to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would straight away be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and dreary straight from the camera. luckily , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours singly to introduce some contrast. However, a great starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some strong blacks and whites. This can be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, should inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the most excellent composition.

Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are simply as advantageous in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more useful . An ND grad is supportive when you want to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter should be used to decrease reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, judge taking two or more shots with different exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be afraid to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, could also be advantageous for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of his opposite colour while lightening objects of his own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green single will lighten foliage.

Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a mechanism that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers could only thought of taking a degree of because you could target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you could use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to perk up them to increase local contrast. It’s a great scheme of giving a sense of better sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you may set the opacity of the tools, you could build up his effect gradually so the impact is crafty and there are no hard edges.

Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots could work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider place than they would with a short exposure and this may help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If required , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to decrease exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). typically , when exposures extend farther than regarding 1/60 sec a tripod is required to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.

Take Control. Although coloured filters can still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more common to save this work until the processing stage. Until a a couple years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the preferred means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more strong tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust one of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as crafty gradations should become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or pink shirt with the red sliding control, for instance , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls may also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create differentiation between objects of the same brightness but with unique colours.

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My cousin makes this kind of black and white art. He doesn’t have any education in art or doing paintings or drawings. He once told me he just sits and draws whatever that comes from within. So, all he makes is really original without any copying. There are some samples on his page:

Black and white – no shading, only shape by Palatin, May 12, 2011, 8:15:38 AM Journals / Art Features

I commend all artists featured in this article and salute everybody who does pieces in this style, however the author thinks that three artists stick out in quality and quantitiy so they deserve a special mentioning:wytherwing If you are bored of colorful girls, his gallery is the place to go.

Falang She has a number of portraits that are worth seeing.GiP7 He does a great job in scenes.I hope I raised your the awareness for this style. If you happen to know or even do pieces in this style, please leave a comment!

This effect is not limited to just black and white but excels in using minimal colours.

Matt correctly identifies the style as High Contrast Art. But following the tag technique-identification – The technique frequently used to create this kind of art is Linocut.

I would think that this is high contrast art. The variance of dark and light colours is very high in that picture. While this does not fit all the styles linked it fits enough of them.

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This articles features a style that may not be the most popular, but it produces very interesting art and if you are a true connoisseur is always worth a look – or maybe even a try? Well, let’s first talk about what makes this style special.

The arsenal of the artist is reduced to two main colors without any tints, shades or tones and maybe one other color to highlight important details. Black and white are the most common combinations, others are possible but there has to be a sharp contrast.

Therefore there is no real lighting or shading, everything has to be expressed by the shape. The third color is rarely used since it’s only function is to set a small highlight, together with black and white pure red seems to be a favourite.

So we are not talking about pencil drawings, they use shades of grey, nor about inked linearts, since you can add color and shading to them. The traditional art of papercutting is somewhat close, but of course using digital tools makes things different in the details.

OK, after we have established what this is about, let’s get to the pictures.Portraits:Notice that it does not take to many features to fool the human brain into recognizing real people leaving the artist many possibilities to explore a persons or (fictional) characters traits.

Also notice that the devil girl in piece number 12 is a traditional drawing on black paper.

These are very similar to notan drawings. Artists use notan drawings to quickly determine whether or not their finished painting will have an interesting pattern of dark and light values. It is a valuable tool for establishing an interesting composition in a painting. Arthur Wesley Dow wrote about notan in the 19th century. His book is out of copyright available for free download from the Internet. Notan originated in Japanese art.

Scenery:What that style gives to scenes is quite unique, although not always the same. It can create mysterious and dark moods or, if white is more dominant, can add a certain clearity – like in the first piece of the Eiffel Tower.

:thumb154135153: :thumb207355739: Abstract: The fourth piece is an example where red and black are the two main components and white acts as the third color to highlight details.:thumb195226379: Comics:Of course you can create entire comics in this style.

Here are the four best examples that I found so far. Notice how in the third piece nighttime is shown by using not white but a light grey. The last three are only pages of longer comics, go to the artists gallery to see the rest.

This is like what you see in the classic Che Guevara graphic.

Black and white – no shading, only shapeThis articles features a style that may not be the most popular, but it produces very interesting art and if you are a true connoisseur is always worth a look – or maybe even a try? Well, let’s first talk about what makes this style special.

The arsenal of the artist is reduced to two main colors without any tints, shades or tones and maybe one other color to highlight important details. Black and white are the most common combinations, others are possible but there has to be a sharp contrast.

Therefore there is no real lighting or shading, everything has to be expressed by the shape. The third color is rarely used since it’s only function is to set a small highlight, together with black and white pure red seems to be a favourite.

So we are not talking about pencil drawings, they use shades of grey, nor about inked linearts, since you can add color and shading to them. The traditional art of papercutting is somewhat close, but of course using digital tools makes things different in the

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