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Black And White Film Photography Snow

Black And White Film Photography Snow Black And White Film Photography Snow

Ilford Delta 3200 and set the asa dial to 1250. I also found Tmax 400 New pretty good. 92 months ago (permalink)

hi guys, just started shooting film. my first roll was developed and scanned by …

Get a nice deep yellow filter (K2 / Y52) if you’re shooting B&W film. 🙂 92 months ago (permalink)

Re incident metering: normally you can assume the light falling on the ground is about the same amount as the amount falling on your meter a few feet up. But with snow, you’re also getting a lot of light bouncing up off the ground. This light will also hit buildings, etc. – but it doesn’t fall on the snow itself, which is only getting lit from above! So it’s a bit of an unusual situation. 92 months ago (permalink)

I’m pretty sure that this is why incident metering was invented. You don’t need to make any corrections for subject refelectivity or glare, just use the settings on the meter. I shot K64 in snow this way a few weeks back and the slides came back perfect:

First, you need to pray it isn’t sunny. The range between sunlit snow and unlit shadows is just too huge.You might need to be a bit careful with incident readings in this situation – because (unlike the ground normally) the snow will throw a lot of light back up to the meter – whereas that light won’t be falling on the snow itself, obviously.Fresh snow is probably closer to 3(+?) stops over “normal” – but when I was shooting in the snow, I would make it 2(+) over – but that was me just being nervous about going any higher and losing the texture/detail of the snow altogether. 92 months ago (permalink)

If you’ve ever had the pleasure of viewing Wolfgang Moersch’s photostream on on Flickr you might have seen some of his winter work done with his Blad and Holga.  Wolfgang Moersch is a master printer and has been at this for a while which is evident by the images he produces.   If you’ve never seen his work go check it out, it’s simply amazing.

As always no comment just the photos. Use your imagination and 2 per month.

Here is a thread about film for snow, it may helpwww.flickr.com/groups/ishootfilm/discuss/7215761259851981… 92 months ago (permalink)

BTW, there appears to be highlight clipping. This is due to my scanning, rather than lack of detail on the slides. 92 months ago (permalink) Tommy Bass says:

Does anybody have any examples of this? I’ve read bits and pieces scattered t…

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Most recentish 135 film has a DX barcode on the cartridge, usually with a six di…

This thread is for questions, experiences and tips relating to C41 and E6 home f…

If the snow on the ground is fresh and pure white, try metering the pure white snow. With the light meter reading you get, open your aperture by 2 f-stops. If there is detail in the snow, foot prints, grass sticking out, or shadows, you will only have to open your aperture by 1 or 1 ½ f-stops.

If it is an overcast day, your image will be even more gray than usual. It is suggested that you open your aperture by at least 2 ½ stops to overexpose. Please be advised that overcast days typically lead to dull color or gray photos.

Therefore, an overcast day with snow on the ground will be even more difficult to capture full color or gray tones. It would be advised that beginner photographers always make use of sunny days to help achieve good exposure.

Additional Photography Tips for Winter Photography

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Winter photography has it’s own set of unique challenges.  White snow against dark trees makes for a high contrast scene.  You want to keep you snow white but you don’t want to loose the detail of the texture in most cases, and you also may want to keep some detail in the trees if you can help it.  If you meter snow and over expose by 2 stops you will get white snow but often times the overexposure will make for very high contrast.  When printing this loss of detail can be catastrophic to your image if not handled correctly, which takes a lot of work.  Scanning gives you more control as long as the information was captured on the negative, but it may not be as visually appealing as the scene looked to the human eye when captured.

Thanks, I did have a quick glance through that thread but it appeared to be more about colour and slide film recommendations, which I’ve got sorted, and exposure. I’ll have a more careful read through. I’ll have a look through my camera bits to see if I’ve got a polarising filter that fits this lens. Thanks for the reminder. 92 months ago (permalink)

Winter photography will require a different approach to film photography and exposure. When a light meter measures light it measure a mid-gray point. However, because the average tone of a bright winter scene is much lighter than a medium gray, the photograph is often underexposed. This is because your light meter is averaging all the light to a medium gray, and since snow is bright white, it will be darkened to match that average. Overexposing the film will allow more light to enter the camera and brighten the snow to the natural white color. Overexposure is done by opening the aperture of the film camera.

Keeping your film camera protected in the winter and snow is essential. Snow falling on your camera poses a big threat for numerous reasons. Mainly, if snow gets on or in your lens, every photograph taken may have a water drop mark on it. Also, every camera with a metering system or automatic features will contain a small battery in the bottom of the camera. It is essential that your battery is kept warm so that it does not go bad. However, the camera body itself should actually be kept cold. While keeping your equipment cold may not be generally recommended, a change from cold to warm may cause some condensation to appear on the lens and render it nearly useless for a few hours.

Thanks for the film suggestions and it’s really good to see some examples. I’m especially impressed with the 4th picture Håkan tar fart and Håkan droppar. That’s one hell of a steep slope! 92 months ago (permalink)

You can’t fail with Plus-X or TMX. That said the last time I went into the snow with the sun out it left 15 minutes after we got there and thank God I had some Tri-X in the bag. 92 months ago (permalink)

i’m shooting with ilford FP4 125 ASA speed film, trouble is I can only set my ca…

You may want to switch over to center-weight or spot metering before you over-expose. If you over-expose with matrix metering, you will have little idea which area of the scene it is over-exposing. 92 months ago (permalink)

Velvia is right, though tricky to expose so I would also bring some provia 100. For bw I would stick to Tmax 100.I usually use matrix metering +2/3 for sunny pictures and +1/3 for darker light (but then I want the picture to capture the overcast atmosphere). For spot metering it’s a differerent case. Most of my pictures are used with manual focus and only one shot taken at a time.Just some examples:

Point the camera at the snow so it fills the viewfinder and take a meter reading. Open up two stops if you want the snow to look white (camera meter will see middle grey). 92 months ago (permalink)

You could also use a polarizing filter to cut out the majority of the glare from the snow. 92 months ago (permalink)

In order to compensate for the film camera light metering, you must overexpose your images so that snow looks white. Keep in mind that film photography in the winter can be difficult and may take some time to learn. However, you may follow these basic photography techniques to help get you started:

Provia 100 Tmx 100 Tmx 100 Provia 100 Velvia 100 92 months ago (permalink) Kate Tettmar says:

So what are the tricks of the trade for those fantastic winter photos taken by the masters?  Well one method which seems to be effective is larger format film in slower ISO’s than most of us work with.  Medium format negatives are a big improvement over 35MM in landscape because of the larger surface area.  With more surface area to work with tonal graduations are more gradual.  Slower film captures more detail so break out that tri-pod.   Careful consideration to your metering is also paramount.  If you use the in camera or handheld meter’s recommendation without regard to your scene more than likely you will not get the image your after unless you happen to get lucky.  Like most of you I can’t afford a fancy spot meter.  I do own an inexpensive 300mm zoom lens camera that fits my very affordable EOS 35mm camera with state of the art (in the film era anyway) metering.  Instant spot meter.  It doesn’t weigh much and it’s a nice kit for taking pictures of detailed smaller objects that normally get lost in a landscape as well.

Here’s an interesting article that might help you out. www.kodak.com/cluster/global/en/consumer/products/techInf… 92 months ago (permalink)

OK Here is the place to put all your fine photos and gear I am going to make th…

2 stops up here in Canada. ;)Snow is one big highlight and your meter is going to cause you to underexpose. IF you’re meteing off snow. You can set an exposure compensation, but once you’re taking photos in trees or by the chalet where snow isn’t going to be metered, then you’ll be overexposing. So a little extra thought is required.If in doubt, use an abient incident meter. It will tell you exactly how much light is falling on your location. You can pick them up cheap off eBay for under $50. I’ve even snagged old GE, Weston, and Gossens for $10 – $15. 92 months ago (permalink)

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Lastly a bit about your kit in winter.  If you have a camera or other gear that relies on batteries bring spare batteries when you’re in near freezing or below temperatures.  Keep them in a pants pocket or somewhere they will stay warm.  Batteries do not always work well in the cold.  It’s a good idea to bring gloves and water.  Even though it’s cold your body can still dehydrate while out hiking.

I’m getting ready to develop some PanF+ in Kodak d-76 1:1. I’ve done this befor…

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Shooting black and white in snowy conditions is a lot of fun but difficult to master if you don’t have a lot of experience. We get about 2 or 3 days a year to practice here. When in doubt I bracket as a learning tool. I tend to like contrasty scenes but have found them the most difficult to expose. 92 months ago (permalink)

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mekongaroo:Why would you overexpose? I agree you shouldn’t just automatically underexpose, but I think you would want to choose based on the photo and dynamic range you need. 92 months ago (permalink)

Hello there, I’m in the hunt of a Canon RF, probably P or 7 with a 50mm or 35…

Spot meter the brightest part of the snow and overexpose 1, 1.5, or 2 stops for white snow. Originally posted 92 months ago. (permalink) Tommy Bass edited this topic 92 months ago.

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Hi, I would like some recommendations for black and white film to use in the snow. I’m going on a skiing holiday soon, to the Alps, and intend to take 2 Nikon F80 bodies and a Nikkor 28-80mm F3.5 lens (with a skylight filter). I’ll use Fuji Velvia 100 in one body and B&W in the other body. Apart from some shots around the resort and maybe in the evenings I’ll be taking the cameras up into the mountains with me at least once. I’ve only used Rollei IR 400 (without an IR filter) in the snow here in the UK, which seemed ok but I imagine there’s a better film? My limited experience shooting in the snow has taught me to underexposure a stop or 2.What B&W films can people recommend?Thanks,KateEDIT: I meant overexpose, sorry!! Originally posted at 1:50PM, 17 January 2011 PDT (permalink) Kate Tettmar edited this topic 92 months ago.

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Thank you for the B&W film recommendations. 92 months ago (permalink)

While it’s still the early stage of fall where I live for our friends in the North winter is already well on it’s way.  Hope you were able to get some nice fall colors with your slide film when it was at it’s peak!  For me when winter arrives it’s time to focus on black and white photography.  I shoot black and white year round but I find that the funnest and most challenging time to shoot landscape photography is in the winter.  Something about the starkness of trees that have lost most of their leaves, snow on the ground and ice on the ponds and lakes makes for really interesting photography.  Plus it gives me an excuse to get out of the house on otherwise cold and dreary days.

We can’t pick one as we get so many in a day or even hour. So I Ask the memb…

Simple. Open 1 or 2 stops over the meter reading. If meter read f/16, open to f/8 or f/11. You may want to bracket if you’re not sure. No meter? Follow this rule. For 100 ISO film, contrasty sunny scenes, f/8, 1/200s. This works for any BW films. Forget complicated this and that. This is my experience with Sunny f/16 rule (the “real” sunny 16 says f/22 for snow. Wrong. Too closed). Originally posted 92 months ago. (permalink) Barreur/Skipper edited this topic 92 months ago.

Having re-read my original post I spotted the glaring mistake. Experience has taught me to OVERexpose, not underexpose. I’ve only used my meterless cameras in the snow up until now so I’ve taken a meter reading then used a much slower shutter speed. This has been using mostly guesswork and intuition, which has worked for me. I normally bracket if I’m shooting 35mm anyway. I try to be more precise with slide film though.Any more B&W film recommendations? I was toying with a fast film such as delta 3200 or neopan 1600 to cover all eventualities – sunny days vs dark, cloudy days etc. Originally posted 92 months ago. (permalink) Kate Tettmar edited this topic 92 months ago.

So you don’t get gray snow due to the meter being confused by the abundance of highlights. I’ve read that in at least 3 books and countless pages online. 92 months ago (permalink)

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