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Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a habit that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers can only aspiration of because you may target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you should use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to brighten them to increase local contrast. It’s a great track of sharing a sense of superior sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you may set the opacity of the tools, you should build up his effect gradually so the impact is subtle and there are no hard edges.

Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots should work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider area than they would with a short exposure and this can help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If necessary , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to decrease exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). classically , when exposures extend farther than relating to 1/60 sec a tripod is required to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.

Take Control. Although coloured filters can still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more common to save this work until the processing stage. Until a few years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the preferred means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more strong tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust single of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as crafty gradations can become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or rosy shirt with the red sliding control, for instance , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls should also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create differentiation between objects of the same brightness but with different colours.

Shoot RAW + JPEG. The greatest monochrome conversions are gained by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome picture Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As most photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. most cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact manner cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users should also do this if they activate his camera’s live apprehension means , but the usually slower responses mean that numerous will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.

Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all decreased to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would instantaneously be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and dingy straight from the camera. luckily , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours separately to introduce some contrast. However, a good starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some powerful blacks and whites. This could be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, could inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the greatest composition.

Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are purely as advantageous in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more useful . An ND grad is collaborative when you want to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter could be used to reduce reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, interpret taking two or more shots with varied exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be anxious to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, should also be useful for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of their opposite colour while lightening objects of her own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green single will lighten foliage.

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Black white photographyIssue no 125

Black+White Photographer of the Year 2018 competition were faced

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Black+White Photography Magazine: Website | Facebook | Instagram My Modern Met granted permission to use photos by Black+White Photography Magazine. Related Articles: Hasselblad Announces 2018 “Masters” of Its Iconic Photography Competition Winners of the 2017 MonoVisions Photography Awards Explore the World in Black & White Winners of the Sony World Photography Awards 2017 Open Competition Revealed Winners of the B&W Child Photography Contest Capture the Universal Essence of Childhood

Pick up a copy of B+W212, our February issue, to see the winning pictures plus a selection of the judges’ favourites. Download the app edition of the magazine to see an additional 24 pages of fantastic images from the competition.

SECOND PRIZE – EDUARDO LÓPEZ MORENOEduardo wins a Fujifilm X100F.

Striking Winners of the 2018 Black + White Photographer of the Year Competition

Rachael Talibart, Winner – Black + White Photographer of the Year 2018

Talibart’s image was selected for its combination of technical skill and artistry, which tipped the balance in favor of the landscape photograph. In a field heavily peppered with imagery including people, Talibart’s win proves that this type of photography is just as powerful as portraiture or photojournalism.

See all the winners and a selection of other entries in the February

Take a look at the other winning and shortlisted entries from the Black+White Photographer of the Year 2018 competition.

Celebrating creativity and promoting a positive culture by spotlighting the best sides of humanity—from the lighthearted and fun to the thought-provoking and enlightening.

Although we have photo contests for the broad categories of single images and portfolios, readers have suggested contests limited to the method of exposure or the time period when a photo was captured. We have come up with a blend of old and new which offer an opportunity to a variety of photographic interests.

The narrow focus of each contest means fewer entries and increases the chance your image will be selected. While the winners won’t be featured in a Special Issue, they will get prominent representation in regular issues of Black & White. Adding more pages to each issue will allow us to dedicate 16-24 pages to display winning photos. Each of the four contests will have a dedicated section in one of the four regular issues of Black & White. The added pages of award-winning photography will be an added bonus for our readers.

From thousands of entries all over the world, the judges of the

FIRST PRIZE – RACHAEL TALIBARTRachael wins a Fujifilm X-Pro2 plus three lenses.

Celebrating the best of monochromatic photography, the Black+White Photographer of the Year (BPOTY) contest has awarded the winners of the 2018 competition. The biennial contest is organized by Black+White Photography Magazine in partnership with Fujifilm and is open to amateur and professional photographers.

Talibart, who is both an experienced sailor and professional photographer, beat out a field of talented international photographers to win the title of Black+White Photographer of the Year. Participants were asked to submit images across three categories: The World of People, The World Around Us, and The Creative World. The winners were judged by an expert panel that included Elizabeth Roberts (editor of Black + White Photography Magazine), Shoair Mavlian (assistant curator of Photography at the Tate Modern), and 2015 BPOTY winner Vicki Painting.

Rachael Talibart was awarded the top prize for her striking image of a breaking wave captured off the southern coast of England. The ocean spray, frozen in time, is a dramatic shot that takes on even greater mystery in black and white. “With the right image, I find that shooting black and white can powerfully enhance the emotion I’m trying to evoke and, being one step removed from reality, it can offer a fresh perspective,” she shared.

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