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Black And White Photography Themes.

Take Control. Although coloured filters may still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more prominent to save this work until the processing stage. Until a some years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the favorite means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more powerful tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust single of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as crafty gradations may become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or pinkish shirt with the red sliding control, for moment , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls should also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create differentiation between objects of the same brightness but with varied colours.

Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a roadway that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers can only aspiration of because you should target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you can use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to perk up them to grow local contrast. It’s a great plan of giving a sense of better sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you can set the opacity of the tools, you should build up their effect gradually so the impact is crafty and there are no hard edges.

Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all reduced to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would right now be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and drab straight from the camera. luckily , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours discretely to introduce some contrast. However, a great starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some powerful blacks and whites. This could be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, should inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the greatest composition.

Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots could work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider area than they would with a short exposure and this can help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If required , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to reduce exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). typically , when exposures extend farther than in respect of 1/60 sec a tripod is required to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.

Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are purely as advantageous in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more useful . An ND grad is collaborative when you require to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter may be used to reduce reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, deem taking two or more shots with unique exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be afraid to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, can also be useful for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of her opposite colour while lightening objects of his own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green single will lighten foliage.

Shoot RAW + JPEG. The unsurpassed monochrome conversions are made it to by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome photograph Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As many photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. numerous cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact habit cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users could also do this if they activate her camera’s live opinion routine , but the usually slower responses mean that most will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.

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How’s that for a list of things to shoot?! Now get out there and take some great photographs!?

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Just take a look at this list of themes and items that are interesting to shoot. It should get you started.

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Abandoned Buildings Abstracts Amphibian Anger Arches Architecture Autumn Back Alleys Bad Weather Bald Heads Balloons Bare Feet Bark Barns Bees Bicycle Parts Bikes Birds Black and White Blimps Blue Bolts Bones Books Bottles Bridge Bridges Broken Glass Bronze Brown Bump Butterflies Butterflies / Bees Campsites Car Details Catching People Unaware Cats Celebrations Choice Church Windows Churches Circles City Hall City Skylines City Street Scenes Close-up Clouds Cold Colours Columns Computers Contrasts Covered Bridges Critters Culture Curves Custom Cars Dancers Decorations Demonic Demonstrations Devilish Digital Disappearing Professions Disappearing Technologies Dishes Documentary Dogs Dominating Doom and gloom Door Knobs Doors Dots / Dashes / Diagonals Drawers Duplicates Easter Eggs Elation Embrace Emergency Situations Enthusiasm / eager Environmental Trash Events Eye Glasses Eyes Farm Animals Feathers Feet Feisty Feline Femininity Fences Fetes & Festivals Fetish Fire Fire Engines Fireworks / Fire Fish Flags Flower Petals Flowers Food Forks Forms in Nature Fountains Framed Freeways Frozen Fruit Games Gardens Gates Gears Geriatric (older folks) Glamour Glass Gold Graceful Graffiti Green H Hands Halloween Hallways Handles Hands Happiness Harbours Harvest Hats Hidden History Holiday Horizon Horses Hot Rod Cars Hunger Ice Inclines Indian Ruins Indigenous Things Or People Industrial Insects Inspiration Iridescent Iron Isolated Objects Jails Jets Jewelry Jobs Joints Journalistic Joy Jugs Junk Yards Keys Kids Kin or Families Kite Kites Knives Landscapes Lazy Learning Leaves Legs Letters Light Lightning Lights Locks Machine Parts Macro Marine life Masculinity Masks Mass flowers Mirrors Money Monuments Mood Movie Theater Marquees Muse Mushrooms Neon Signs Night Night lights Nighttime Nonsense Noodles Numbers Nut Nuts Objects Odd Couples Old Everything Olympic Opposites Opulent Orange Pairs Paper Abstracts Parallel Lines Patterns Peacocks Peeling Paint People People At Work People Walking Dogs Peppers Perspective Pets Pictures in Pictures Piles of Things Pink / Purple Polished Porches Quad Quarters Queens Railroad Cars Railroad Tracks Raindrops Rainbows Red Red Barns Reenactments Reflection Reflections in Glass Reflections in Water Religious Roads-capes Rocks Round Things Rows of Things Rust Rustic Sand dunes Sand Patterns Sea Shells Seascapes Seasons Self Shadows Shoes Signs Silhouettes Skulls Sky Sleeping Animals Sleeping People Small Furry Animals Smiles Smoke Stacks Snow Soft Curves Sorrow Spanish Moss Speed Spoons Sports Spring Squirrel Stacks Stairs Statues Steam Railroads Still life Strange Signs String Instruments Structures Summer Sunrise Sunset Superstitions Sweets Swings Tattoos Teddy Bear / toy Textures The Local School The spot (X marks it, you know) Toads Tombstones Tools Tools of the Trade Transport Tree Knots Trees Ugly Everything Umbrella Umbrellas Ungulates (hoofed animals, pigs, goats, deer horses) Uniforms Urban Utensils Vacation Valves Vegetables Vices or Habits Views Vignettes Vines Visitors Watches Water Waterfalls Weather Weathered Wood Wet Wheels White Wide Angle Everything Wildlife Windows Winter Woods Xenon Xenophobia Xylophones Yachts Yellow Yo-yos Zebras Zig Zags Zipper Zombies! Zoos

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This crazy list of photography themes is useful for those who feel like there is nothing to photograph. Photography themes are a great way to organize your photography. Often students say their town is boring or there is nothing to shoot. There is ALWAYS something to photograph you just have to get creative. This list should get the creative juices flowing.

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