Shoot RAW + JPEG. The best monochrome conversions are stumbled on by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome picture Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As most photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. many cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact policy cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users can also do this if they kick in her camera’s live supposition manner , but the usually slower responses mean that most will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.
Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are purely as useful in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more advantageous . An ND grad is supportive when you require to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter could be used to decrease reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, view taking two or more shots with different exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be afraid to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, could also be useful for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of their opposite colour while lightening objects of his own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green single will lighten foliage.
Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all decreased to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would instantaneously be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and lackluster straight from the camera. happily , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours separately to introduce some contrast. However, a great starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some forceful blacks and whites. This may be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, can inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the unsurpassed composition.
Take Control. Although coloured filters should still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more common to save this work until the processing stage. Until a some years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the favorite means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more powerful tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust single of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as subtle gradations could become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or pinkish shirt with the red sliding control, for moment , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls may also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create segregation between objects of the same brightness but with unique colours.
Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a route that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers could only dream of because you may target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you should use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to perk up them to grow local contrast. It’s a great approach of giving a sense of superior sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you can set the opacity of the tools, you could build up her effect gradually so the impact is crafty and there are no hard edges.
Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots can work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider area than they would with a short exposure and this may help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If required , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to decrease exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). typically , when exposures extend beyond on the subject of in connection with 1/60 sec a tripod is wanted to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.
Related Images of Black And White Prints Have Green Tint
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Yes, I am printing on the paper I usually use (Epson Hot Press Bright). Printer/software controls? Not sure what you mean. Once I have converted to B&W, it seems the only thing I can do is change the tint in Lightrooom.
I tried that, and it seems to help a bit.
Joined Jun 20, 2009 Messages 13,768 Location Bellaire, TX USA Lightroom Experience Power User Lightroom Version Classic 7
Let’s back up a bit here. Is the monitor accurately calibrated? If it is not, then the green that you see elsewhere could be in the image but not showing in the monitor. Once you have an accurately calibrated monitor, you can use the Soft-proofing tool in Develop to emulate the printer and paper color profile that you will use on the printed version.
Then you can adjust the soft-proof view to your personal tastes and the printed version should resemble what you see on the screen.
Let’s back up one more step. The B&W photos are made in Nik Silver Efex Pro 2, if I read it correctly. That means they are black & white, period. If the print is green, then that tint is somehow caused by the printing process.
Check what printer profiles you are using, and check that the printer driver doesn’t do a color management step as well. ‘Double profiling’ is a common cause of a strange color cast in prints.
Joined Jun 16, 2013 Messages 22 Location Chandlers Ford UK Lightroom Experience Intermediate Lightroom Version
How are you accessing your printers controls and setup?–Ken
Since you say they are not green on your monitor, I am assuming that you are referring to printrd images. Are you printing them yourself? Have you tried making qdjustments to your printer software/controls? And are you printing on a new/different paper?–Ken
Ian Hutchinson Digital Secretary Southampton Camera Club Southampton International Exhibition
Joined Dec 7, 2007 Messages 1,725 Location Puget Sound Lightroom Experience Intermediate
Are you using the correct paper profile when printing and if so is it the generic Epson one or have you have a custom one made?
What printer are you using? It’s very difficult to get good B&W prints from most color printers that only have a single black ink.
For some reason I am getting a greenish tint in my photos that have been converted to B&W in Efex Pro 2. Is there a way to get rid of that green cast? I have tried changing tint/WB in Lightroom once I have the photo back in Lightroom, but it doesn’t seem to help or else it makes the color weird.
The photo does not look greenish on my monitor, and I calibrated not long ago.
By the way: it’s easy to check that the file is really pure black & white, and does not have any color cast itself. Just hover your cursor over it and check the RGB values underneath the histogram. All three should be the same.
Also check the histogram itself. Because all three channels should be identical, the histogram should not show different shapes in different colors. It should be one black shape only.
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Forums Lightroom & Photoshop Discussion Editing Photos Using Lightroom
Website: Johan W. Elzenga Facebook page: Johan W. Elzenga, photographer
Joined Jul 2, 2015 Messages 7,231 Location Netherlands Lightroom Experience Power User Lightroom Version Classic 7
Joined Jul 9, 2012 Messages 58 Location Cambridge, MA Lightroom Experience Advanced
I don’t know why this is showing up like this. Anyway, all suggestions are helpful, especially this last one that is somehow in my note. I am unable to access my computer until tomorrow, so I will check.