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Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots may work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider place than they would with a short exposure and this can help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If necessary , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to reduce exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). classically , when exposures extend farther than re 1/60 sec a tripod is wanted to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.

Take Control. Although coloured filters could still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more prominent to save this work until the processing stage. Until a some years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the favored means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more strong tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust single of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as crafty gradations can become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or pinkish shirt with the red sliding control, for moment , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls may also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create discrimination between objects of the same brightness but with diverse colours.

Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all decreased to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would instantaneously be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and colorless straight from the camera. happily , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours singly to introduce some contrast. However, a good starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some strong blacks and whites. This should be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, can inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the best composition.

Shoot RAW + JPEG. The unsurpassed monochrome conversions are run into by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome picture Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As most photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. numerous cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact roadway cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users should also do this if they activate her camera’s live opinion course of action , but the usually slower responses mean that numerous will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.

Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a means that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers can only aspiration of because you may target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you can use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to perk up them to grow local contrast. It’s a great mechanism of sharing a sense of greater sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you should set the opacity of the tools, you could build up her effect gradually so the impact is subtle and there are no hard edges.

Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are purely as advantageous in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more useful . An ND grad is cooperative when you require to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter can be used to reduce reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, think of taking two or more shots with varied exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be anxious to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, should also be useful for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of their opposite colour while lightening objects of her own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green one will lighten foliage.

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Bring your ideas to Shutterfly and use our photo gifts and custom ideas as inspiration to enhance any aspect of your photos, personal items, décor and more any time you want. Free your creative side and take advantage of your options with Shutterfly today.

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No one has to know that your vintage looking photographs are actually digital photos that have been retouched in black and white. Shutterfly makes it easy for you to save time and money so you can create the photos with the special enhancements you want for an affordable price.

No matter how you design your home, you want the area to have a classic and timeless feel that doesn’t diminish after a while. You don’t want different aspects of your décor to compete and distract from the subjects of yours photos and memories. By choosing to go with black and white decor, your rooms will have a unique and exquisite feel that is hard to duplicate without the use of quality black and white wall art.

Using black and white wall décor and colors to add power and authority to any room. It’s a great way to enhance your décor without rearranging any furniture. You don’t need to take new pictures unless you want to or purchase new furnishings. You can improve the amount of attention that is drawn to your focal points and subjects without the risk of adding distracting colors and enhancements. Use any of your photos, new and old to create elegant works of art that will leave you and your friends and family impressed and amazed.

As much as you enjoy the vibrant hues of colors, in some areas of your home or office, they are not allowed. Whether you decided to ban color for sentimental reasons or you decided to go with a black and white theme, you’ll find a diverse collection of black and white products at Shutterfly.

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