Black And White Street Photography Filter

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The main problem will be eliminating people from the busy streets and thats where the 10 stop nd or big stopper comes in

Black And White Street Photography Filter

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Black And White Street Photography Filter.

OK the Rollei 400 may be fast enough. Even Efke IR820 (which, with a Hoya R72, has an effective ISO of about 3, at least in my experience) should be doable in *bright* sunlight, shooting at f/2.8-f/4, give or take. Of course, that requires the photographer to be good at scale focus or maybe to have a rangefinder that’s been re-calibrated, or maybe have a regular rangefinder and pre-focus. (Or maybe just have really good muscle memory when it comes to applying the focus adjustment.)Obviously I wouldn’t consider IR820 to be an ideal street shooter’s film, for all these reasons — but it’s not an impossibility. : )I also can’t think of a reason why you couldn’t shoot it anywhere with strong enough flash. However, I haven’t yet found a really practical film/filter combination for IR820, and I’m not about to wander around blasting people with the full force of my Sunpak unfiltered. 99 months ago (permalink)

What? A red 25 is shit for IR and there are no good IR films left that are fast enough for street photography I agree that a red 25 filter is not ideal for IR with existing films, but I call bullshit on the second point. Rollei IR400 with a Hoya R72 has an effective ISO of 12-25, which is more than fast enough for street photography handheld on sunny days, and for indoor, overcast, or evening street work, flash works just fine with IR. You can even gel the flash to diminish visible output so as to be less noticeable/bothersome to your subjects and bystandars. 99 months ago (permalink)

If I shoot street photography with black and white film, should I shoot it with a filter like I would say BW landscape? 9:25PM, 14 June 2010 PDT (permalink)

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For street photography of people, I think it’s probably best not to use a filter, because the streets are full of different colours, both in the background (shop windows, adverts) and in clothing. A filter can completely change the relationship of those colours. A slightly yellow filter might help if the sky is visible, and a pale green might flatter the faces of your subjects, but anything stronger will look too “unnatural”, which is the last thing you want if you’re going for the “classic” street photography look. 99 months ago (permalink)

Paul_Sch wrote If I shoot street photography with black and white film, should I shoot it with a filter like I would say BW landscape? If I’m shooting at Iso 1600 I use a dark orange and a polarizer to shoot in bright sunshine, when the light drops I remove the polarizer, darker still and off comes the orange for dusk and after dark. 99 months ago (permalink)

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DX barcode numbers on 135 film (please contribute) 150 replies

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hi guys, just started shooting film. my first roll was developed and scanned by ……

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You never need the filter. You just choose to use it if you want its particular effects. 99 months ago (permalink)

I’m getting ready to develop some PanF+ in Kodak d-76 1:1. I’ve done this befor…

It’s certainly not a necessity. It only occurs to me to use one for street photography when there’s sky in the frame and I want to darken it. Or when I’m shooting IR.But I’m not a real filter-intensive guy anyway. 99 months ago (permalink)

My goal is to change the ISF banner every month with a member’s image. If I chan…

are you using IR film? is this your first roll? if so — i’ll buck common wisdom and support your subject experiments. I definitely agree that doing your own tests when working with IR is a must. And I strongly recommend bracketing — not all the time, but for test rolls, definitely do. Keep the most thorough notes you can, because you’re going to want to make adjustments later on a variety of fronts.That being said, this may be of interest on the topic of filter/film IR… 99 months ago (permalink)

i’m shooting with ilford FP4 125 ASA speed film, trouble is I can only set my ca…

Thanks for the replies, I am about to use a red 25 for IR and to darken the sky if I like the amount of darkening that occurs with the filter. I want to take pictures of buildings, businesses, signs, and anything odd in Downtown Fresno and surrounding areas. I figure now that I’ll probably just include a filter if there is enough sky in the picture to warrant the use. 99 months ago (permalink)

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STICKY Your cameras that are not shot on film. A.K.A. Camera porn 115 replies

In addition, most filters will reduce the amount of light reaching the film, so you’ll have to open up the aperture or slow down the shutter speed to compensate. Neither of these are desirable when shooting rapidly moving scenes on the street. Ideally, you want to be shooting at f/8 or smaller and 1/250s or faster. 99 months ago (permalink)

As always no comment just the photos. Use your imagination and 2 per month.

are you using IR film? is this your first roll? if so — i’ll buck common wisdom and support your subject experiments. we learn best from our personal triumphs and failures. there’s a learning curve to exposing IR sensitive film correctly and the best way to learn what materials show what intensity of reflection — is to experiment on a broad cross section of subjects. if you’re not shooting an IR sensitive film, the red filter will turn blues very black and lighten your reds. burn a few rolls and see how you like it. 🙂 99 months ago (permalink)

I’m not about to wander around blasting people with the full force of my Sunpak unfiltered. Have you tried an 89b Wratten or Fuji polyester equivalent over your Sunpak? they’re thrifty and easy to cut. 99 months ago (permalink)

I’ve tried an Ilford SFX filter, which is often identified as an 89B, but may not really be; I’m not sure. Too much visible light bleeds through with that flash, although it works fine with an SB-24 and Rollei IR400.I’ve got a couple of different combinations I need to try out — it’s on the to-do list. : ) 99 months ago (permalink)

Most recentish 135 film has a DX barcode on the cartridge, usually with a six di…

thanks for that link kukku ! it was worth a bookmark. :)while not a true IR film, i like working with SFX. it’s too bad that Konica film can no longer be had. 99 months ago (permalink)

OK the Rollei 400 may be fast enough. 99 months ago (permalink)

What streets are you shooting? and what are they filled with? What film are you using and I need a lot more so fill me in as when I was doing that in Arizona I used many filters but now that I have less sun and sky I only use them fore slow things.. 🙂 99 months ago (permalink)

Hello there, I’m in the hunt of a Canon RF, probably P or 7 with a 50mm or 35…

No filter for me with people street. only UV to protect the front element. The only filter that I use is typically between my ears!No backs No passing shots No sunglasses Get close 99 months ago (permalink)

Like most people have said, there’s no requirement, it’s down to personal preference.But just for a data point, for street photography in the Winogrand sense, I’ll use a yellow filter on sunny days. There’s always a good chance of sky in the photo (I’m shooting with a 35mm most of the time), so it keeps that in check. It’s also mild enough to not make people look strange like a red can.For actual streets and buildings with the people secondary, I would tend to go a little stronger (sometimes a lot stronger, ike red 25 + polarizer), but I will almost always use at least a yellow when there’s bright blue sky around. 99 months ago (permalink)

What is the effect of the filter(s) you are using for landscape work? Do you want the same effect for your street shots? Is there another effect you’d prefer? 99 months ago (permalink)

We can’t pick one as we get so many in a day or even hour. So I Ask the memb…

I’ll suggest a Wratten No. 8 yellow filter or equivalent for B&W films that lack extended red sensitivity. They will cut out UV as well as they take the edge off excessive blue sensitivity. Remember to adjust your EI or apply filter factor (same thing) and remember the filter factor is greater for open shade than direct sunlight, e.g. you might use an adjusted film speed for direct sunlight and then add a filter factor for open shade. You might also just use a conservative film speed and forget all that, e.g. shoot Tri-X at EI 200 and with a yellow filter No. 8 yellow filter you’d shoot at EI 100 or maybe 125. But I don’t like the film speed loss! Then don’t use the filter as you have already lost the film speed by using it and not by accounting for it in your shoot procedures. Get a faster lens and learn to focus under pressure. Practice! Dave HartmanPS: you might also opt for a Wratten No. 4 which is a lighter yellow filter than a No. 8. Originally posted 99 months ago. (permalink) Mr. Speedlight edited this topic 99 months ago.

What? A red 25 is shit for IR and there are no good IR films left that are fast enough for street photography. Use a red 25 for Skies but not people. A graduated ND or Red top grad would be better for what you are talking about.. or even using A Microfilm in my secret developer that allows you to push an ISO film of 6 to about 125 or better and even pushing ISO 50 to 400.…… 99 months ago (permalink)

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IMAGE COLLECTIONS : Black And White Street Photography Filter

The main problem will be eliminating people from the busy streets and thats where the 10 stop nd or big stopper comes inIphone camera app noir filterStreet photographer since i use to photograph with a film camera during the 1980s after i came out of the army but then i didnt touch a camera for 20The first four images were taken with that lens on the noctilux f 0 95 i used the orange filter the last image was taken with that all shot wide openAs well as using the black and white filter ronya has also used foreground interest but making the woman the main focal point of theDscf0119The ghosts of lime streetHoya variable density filter click to enlargeA man and a camera tripod combination taking photographs on the street