Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are merely as useful in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more useful . An ND grad is helpful when you require to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter may be used to reduce reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, consider taking two or more shots with unique exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be afraid to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, may also be advantageous for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of their opposite colour while lightening objects of her own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green one will lighten foliage.
Shoot RAW + JPEG. The most excellent monochrome conversions are attained by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome picture Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As most photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. many cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact peculiarity cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users can also do this if they kick in their camera’s live image road , but the usually slower responses mean that numerous will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.
Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a pathway that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers may only aspiration of because you could target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you may use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to brighten them to increase local contrast. It’s a great manner of sharing a sense of better sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you may set the opacity of the tools, you could build up their effect gradually so the impact is subtle and there are no hard edges.
Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all reduced to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would instantaneously be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and featureless straight from the camera. happily , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours singly to introduce some contrast. However, a good starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some strong blacks and whites. This could be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, should inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the greatest composition.
Take Control. Although coloured filters could still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more common to save this work until the processing stage. Until a a couple years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the favorite means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more forceful tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust one of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as subtle gradations can become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or pinkish shirt with the red sliding control, for moment , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls should also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create separation between objects of the same brightness but with unique colours.
Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots should work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider area than they would with a short exposure and this can help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If necessary , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to reduce exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). characteristically , when exposures extend beyond with reference to 1/60 sec a tripod is wanted to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.
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4 5x7s – Prints Only +$0.00 4 5x7s Matted to 8×10 +$40.00 4 8x10s – Prints Only +$48.00 4 8x10s Matted to 11×14 +$108.00 4 11x14s – Prints Only +$112.00 4 11x14s Matted to 16×20 +$192.00 4 16x20s – Prints Only +$208.00 4 20x24s – Prints Only +$336.00
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Black and White Photography Print Set – Vertical Flower Prints – Discounted Set of 4 Wall Art Prints – Grey
â¢ TITLE: Black and White Photography Print Set – Vertical Flower Prints – Discounted Set of 4 Wall Art Prints – Grey â¢ ORIENTATION: Vertical â¢ SIZES: 5×7, 8×10, 11×14, 16×20, 20×24, 24×30 and 30×40. Click “Select Options > Select Print Size” menu for all options. For sets, size is for each print, not overall. â¢ PRINTS: Are unframed and created on premium, archival fine art paper with a luster finish.â¢ MATTED PRINTS: Arrive ready to frame, presented in an archival, museum-depth 8-ply white mat with backing board. Simply open your package and pop your print into a standard-size frame. Matted 5x7s fit an 8×10 frame, matted 8x10s fit 11×14, matted 11x14s fit 16×20. This is a perfect presentation for gift giving! â¢ COLOR OPTIONS: All images available in color, black and white or sepia (brown) tone upon request. â¢ ORIGINAL FINE ART: All images are original, photographed, edited and copyrighted by Lisa Russo. Watermark will not appear on final print. â¢ NEED HELP? If you have a question, need a custom size, or would like a coordinated print set, click the ‘Contact Me’ or ‘Ask about a Custom Order’ links below my photo on the right.