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Canon 60D Taking Black And White Photos.

Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all decreased to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would straight away be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and lackluster straight from the camera. happily , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours discretely to introduce some contrast. However, a great starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some strong blacks and whites. This could be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, could inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the most excellent composition.

Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are merely as advantageous in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more useful . An ND grad is supportive when you require to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter may be used to reduce reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, make of,find taking two or more shots with varied exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be afraid to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, should also be advantageous for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of her opposite colour while lightening objects of his own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green one will lighten foliage.

Take Control. Although coloured filters should still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more common to save this work until the processing stage. Until a some years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the preferred means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more strong tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust one of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as crafty gradations should become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or rosy shirt with the red sliding control, for instance , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls should also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create demarcation between objects of the same brightness but with varied colours.

Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a drive that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers could only thought of taking a degree of because you may target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you can use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to brighten up them to grow local contrast. It’s a good road of sharing a sense of greater sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you can set the opacity of the tools, you could build up her effect gradually so the impact is subtle and there are no hard edges.

Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots may work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider area than they would with a short exposure and this may help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If necessary , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to decrease exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). classically , when exposures extend beyond in regard to 1/60 sec a tripod is wanted to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.

Shoot RAW + JPEG. The greatest monochrome conversions are blundered on by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome picture Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As many photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. most cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact drive cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users should also do this if they activate their camera’s live understanding roadway , but the usually slower responses mean that many will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.

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I shoot with a 60D and agree completely with what Chuck said. The one qualification I’d make is that you might consider shooting in RAW+JPEG, setting the JPEG to monochrome. This way, the feedback on the LCD will be b/w, but the RAW file will be in full color. If you don’t shoot like to shoot in RAW, then I would definitely shoot color JPEGs and convert them in post. You give up way too much flexibility letting the camera do the conversion for you. 75 months ago (permalink)

Using Digital Photo Professional to Convert to Black-and-White

Press the Set button to access the Picture Style list, and use the down-arrow button to highlight Monochrome. Press the Set button again to select monochrome operation, and then press the Menu button to exit menu mode. Your camera is ready to shoot in black-and-white.

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One drawback with using Picture Style on-camera is the possibility of forgetting to change back to color mode. Many image editing applications can turn color photos into black-and-white after shooting, and Canon’s Digital Photo Professional ships with your camera, or, if you’ve misplaced your disk, you can download it from Canon’s support website.

Click on the Adjust image colors tab. Click and drag the Saturation slider all the way to the left. The color is removed from your photo, leaving a black-and-white image.

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There are two methods to access Picture Style. Each works the same way, and the methods are common to most Canon EOS models.

Like Musing said, I’m shooting RAW + Large JPEG. Camera settings: RAW + Large JPEG: In camera Monochrome, Green Filter on, Sharp +1, Contrast +2. then process in DPP. Play around with the Green & Red filters and up and down on contrast. If your JPEG’s look like crap you can still go back to your RAW files and re-adjust. Originally posted 74 months ago. (permalink) fallacious respect edited this topic 74 months ago.

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I have a Canon 60D with a 50mm f1.8 lens. I love shooting in b/w but whenever I have the camera set to monochrome the pictures always looks washed out. Q: Do you shoot in colour THEN post process or is it to do with the parameters that I set within the monochrome setting in my 60D?… I want to take b/w with a nice range from black, white and inbetween.Thanks in advance 11:49AM, 13 June 2012 PDT (permalink)

Press the down-arrow button to cycle through the Picture Style options until you find Monochrome. Press the Set button to select monochrome operation, and your camera is ready to shoot in black-and-white.

If the 60D is the same as the 40D and 5D2 which I use, the Monochrome setting has no contrast added as a default, whereas the colour Standard setting does. You’ll also notice the Landscape setting has sharpness set at 4.You can modify any of these settings or create up to 3 presets of your own.I would advise that you always shoot in the large RAW format as this gives you the best options for processing later.If you are shooting in JPG, the camera will have applied processing to the images for you. If you don’t want to control how your images look, JPEG is fine, but you will find all serious photographers shoot in RAW. 72 months ago (permalink)

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Press the down-arrow button. The Picture Style list appears on the LCD screen.

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Open Digital Photo Professional and navigate to the folder containing photos to convert. Double-click the image to open the editor.

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Shooting in black-and-white with any Canon EOS requires a simple change to the Picture Style setting, available in the camera’s menus. It’s also possible to shoot in full color and convert your images to black-and-white using software supplied with your camera.

Click File on the menu bar and Save As from the drop-down list. Name your black-and-white photo and click Save. You now have both the color original and the black-and-white copy.

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Press the Menu button, and then use the right-arrow button to the right of the LCD screen to scroll through the menu pages until you find Picture Style. Use the down-arrow button to highlight the item.

I have 60D and I shoot in color then turn it black and white. you may want to keep the color so why shoot it black and white? 75 months ago (permalink)

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