Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are merely as useful in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more useful . An ND grad is collaborative when you require to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter may be used to decrease reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, see taking two or more shots with unique exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be anxious to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, can also be advantageous for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of her opposite colour while lightening objects of his own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green one will lighten foliage.
Take Control. Although coloured filters can still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more prominent to save this work until the processing stage. Until a some years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the favorite means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more powerful tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust single of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as crafty gradations may become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or rosy shirt with the red sliding control, for instance , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls may also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create separation between objects of the same brightness but with diverse colours.
Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a drive that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers can only dream of because you can target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you may use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to brighten up them to increase local contrast. It’s a good trait of sharing a sense of better sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you can set the opacity of the tools, you should build up her effect gradually so the impact is subtle and there are no hard edges.
Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots should work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider area than they would with a short exposure and this could help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If compulsory , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to decrease exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). characteristically , when exposures extend beyond with regard to 1/60 sec a tripod is required to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.
Shoot RAW + JPEG. The most excellent monochrome conversions are got as far as by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome photograph Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As many photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. numerous cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact means cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users may also do this if they kick in his camera’s live line of thinking habit , but the usually slower responses mean that many will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.
Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all decreased to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would at once be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and drab straight from the camera. happily , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours singly to introduce some contrast. However, a good starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some forceful blacks and whites. This should be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, may inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the greatest composition.
Related Images of Edinburgh Street Photography Black And White
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There are a lot of bad elements to autumn in Edinburgh: it’s cold, wet and windy, and it starts getting dark really early. Thankfully, that’s outweighed by the riot of colour that bursts out as the city’s trees begin to lose their leaves. Warm yourself with a nice cup of coffee, or wrap up and bag a spot in one of Edinburgh’s best beer gardens, and enjoy this last flash of colour before everything goes white. Or, more likely, grey.
Whether it’s an idyllic frost-fall or a burning sunrise, sometimes it pays to be an early bird. Here’s the proof…
Check out Edinburgh’s guerilla decor, from small-scale stickers to wall-dominating murals
Take a (bus) trip down memory lane with these gorgeous pics of Edinburgh in flares
Unself-conscious black and white street photography from local snapper
Check out some of the (semi-real) wildlife that can be found out and about in the city
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Winter may be over, but that doesn’t mean we can’t remember it in a wash of beautiful nostalgic whiteness
Edinburgh’s a city of contrast – ancient buildings sit alongside modern architecture and the weather shifts from clear sunshine to foggy darkness. What better way to show off that contrast than in black and white? Here are some of our favourite shots from Byronv2.
Becky Arnold of Square Eyes photography offers a new, Polaroid-style perspective on the capital
Photo: Katherine, via Flickr flickr.com/photos/chatiryworld/5088481773
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18 of our favourite snaps of the capital’s houses, churches, museums and tower blocks, taken by local photographers