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Famous Black And White Fine Art Photographers.

Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a routine that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers can only aspiration of because you may target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you can use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to brighten up them to grow local contrast. It’s a great track of sharing a sense of greater sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you can set the opacity of the tools, you may build up their effect gradually so the impact is crafty and there are no hard edges.

Take Control. Although coloured filters may still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more prominent to save this work until the processing stage. Until a some years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the preferred means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more powerful tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust single of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as subtle gradations can become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or pinkish shirt with the red sliding control, for moment , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls can also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create segregation between objects of the same brightness but with diverse colours.

Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are merely as advantageous in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more useful . An ND grad is cooperative when you want to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter may be used to decrease reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, contemplate taking two or more shots with varied exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be anxious to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, should also be useful for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of their opposite colour while lightening objects of her own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green single will lighten foliage.

Shoot RAW + JPEG. The greatest monochrome conversions are blundered on by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome picture Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As most photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. most cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact custom cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users may also do this if they kick in their camera’s live notion use , but the usually slower responses mean that most will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.

Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots may work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider area than they would with a short exposure and this may help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If required , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to reduce exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). naturally , when exposures extend beyond relating to 1/60 sec a tripod is required to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.

Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all decreased to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would straight away be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and colorless straight from the camera. happily , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours discretely to introduce some contrast. However, a great starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some forceful blacks and whites. This should be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, could inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the greatest composition.

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Lissy Elle– Lissy is a remarkable photographer who addresses the concept of childhood and remaining youthful even in adulthood. Her whimsical and mystical images are confronting and comforting simultaneously.

Aleah Michele – Aleah is new and upcoming and her work is so powerful and crisp, her execution is so precise and detailed and her concepts are so unique and well thought. She is definitely one of my new favourites.

Alex Stoddard – Alex is one of the best in the business, having completed a 365 so young and catapulting himself into a long successful career. He consistently creates amazing dark photographs that are strikingly beautiful and haunting.

Sean Mundy – Sean’s work is very desaturated and haunting, addressing social issues and psychology.

Peter Jamus – Peter works black and white better than I ever could. His work is stark and moody, creating so much mystery and his composition is so beautiful.

There is a beautiful little niche of fine art photographers out there in the world. While many don’t necessarily consider themselves “fine art photographers,” a more modern terminology is “conceptual photographer”. These talented individuals create stories from their images and rarely “just take” a photograph. Here are our top 10 fine art photographers you should know about:

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David Talley – David’s work challenges ideas of light and hope in the dark situations, and executes beautiful visual imagery as well as powerful concepts inspired by romance, loss, and psychology.

Oleg Oprisco – The best part about Oleg’s work is that he shoots film. All the images you see are how they were photographed. Theres no extensive photoshopping to create scenes that did not exist the moment his shutter released.

Brooke Shaden – If I were to summarise fine art in to one photographer, it would be Brooke. Brooke’s work is so dynamic and layered, starting from her concept, to her vibrant and eerie colours. Complexity best describes Brooke’s process and storytelling best describes her body of work.

While I could compile a list of people whose work is outstanding and are a must to follow, combining frequency of consistently beautiful imagery as well as admirable talent, these photographers are certain to keep you inspired and motivated to stretch your style and test the boundaries with your art.

Rosie Hardy – Rosie is more or less the queen of conceptual photography, in the early days of Flickr, her 365 project took the world by storm, inspiring and influencing young artists all around the world to partake in their own.

Laura Zalenga – Laura’s deeply emotive portraits are powerful in concept and in aesthetics. Her unique style stands out and her photographs speak so many words.

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