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How To Color Black And White Photos By Hand.

Shoot RAW + JPEG. The greatest monochrome conversions are met by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome picture Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As most photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. numerous cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact fashion cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users should also do this if they activate his camera’s live idea process , but the usually slower responses mean that numerous will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.

Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are purely as useful in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more useful . An ND grad is helpful when you require to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter should be used to reduce reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, put down as,take for,account,reckon,treat,adjudge,size up,value,rate,gauge,sum up,weigh up taking two or more shots with different exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be anxious to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, may also be useful for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of her opposite colour while lightening objects of his own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green one will lighten foliage.

Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots may work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider place than they would with a short exposure and this may help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If necessary , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to decrease exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). classically , when exposures extend farther than in regard to 1/60 sec a tripod is wanted to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.

Take Control. Although coloured filters may still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more prominent to save this work until the processing stage. Until a few years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the favorite means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more powerful tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust single of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as subtle gradations could become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or pinkish shirt with the red sliding control, for moment , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls should also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create demarcation between objects of the same brightness but with diverse colours.

Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a practice that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers should only thought of taking a degree of because you can target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you may use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to brighten up them to increase local contrast. It’s a good custom of sharing a sense of greater sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you should set the opacity of the tools, you can build up their effect gradually so the impact is crafty and there are no hard edges.

Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all reduced to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would straight away be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and colorless straight from the camera. fortunately , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours discretely to introduce some contrast. However, a great starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some strong blacks and whites. This can be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, should inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the best composition.

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Hand-colouring (or hand-coloring) refers to any method of manually adding colour to a black-and-white photograph, generally either to heighten the realism of the photograph or for artistic purposes.[1] Hand-colouring is also known as hand painting or overpainting.

The type of lighting that you colour under is important. Bright daylight is best, although full sunlight can strain your eyes when working close. Room lighting, whether tungsten or economy bulbs -which are effectively fluorescents -won’t give you an accurate sense of the colour, therefore you will find that prints you have done look quite wrong when viewed in daylight.

Despite their downturn in popularity, skilled photographers continued to create beautifully hand-coloured photographs. Hans Bellmer’s hand-coloured photographs of his own doll sculptures from the 1930s provide an example of continued hand-colouring of photographs in Europe during this time.[11] In Poland, the Monidło is an example of popular hand-coloured wedding photographs.

After: A hand-coloured print from the same negative, hand-coloured by Stillfried & Andersen between 1875 and 1885

It’s been so much fun this week looking through all of the #fridayfavourites #filtered shots and finding out o…

In spite of the availability of high-quality colour processes, hand-coloured photographs (often combined with sepia toning) are still popular for aesthetic reasons and because the pigments used have great permanence. In many countries where colour film was rare or expensive, or where colour processing was unavailable, hand-colouring continued to be used and sometimes preferred into the 1980s. More recently, digital image processing has been used – particularly in advertising – to recreate the appearance and effects of hand-colouring. Colourisation is now available to the amateur photographer using image manipulation software such as Adobe Photoshop.

Hand-coloured photographs sometimes include the combined use of dyes, water-colours, oils, and other pigments to create varying effects on the printed image. Regardless of which medium is used, the main tools to apply colour are the brush and fingertip. Often the dabbing finger is covered to ensure that no fingerprints are left on the image.

Monochrome (black and white) photography was first exemplified by the daguerreotype in 1839 and later improved by other methods including: calotype, ambrotype, tintype, albumen print and gelatin silver print. The majority of photography remained monochrome until the mid-20th century, although experiments were producing colour photography as early as 1855 and some photographic processes produced images with an inherent overall colour like the blue of cyanotypes.

A framed hand-coloured daguerreotype (c. 1850) from the George Eastman House in Rochester, NY.[25]

Don’t worry if you can’t get your print coloured completely in the time you have available.  Adding a little bit of water to dried up dyes will revive them so you can continue colouring at a later date.

By the 1950s, the availability of colour film all but stopped the production of hand-coloured photographs. The upsurge in popularity of antiques and collectibles in the 1960s, however, increased interest in hand-coloured photographs. Since about 1970 there has been something of a revival of hand-colouring, as seen in the work of such artist-photographers as Elizabeth Lennard, Jan Saudek, Kathy Vargas, and Rita Dibert. Robert Rauschenberg’s and others’ use of combined photographic and painting media in their art represents a precursor to this revival.

For more information on Andrew, please visit his website and follow his blog

Parallel efforts to produce coloured photographic images affected the popularity of hand-colouring. In 1842 Daniel Davis Jr. patented a method for colouring daguerreotypes through electroplating,[4] and his work was refined by Warren Thompson the following year. The results of the work of Davis and Thompson were only partially successful in creating colour photographs and the electroplating method was soon abandoned. In 1850 Levi L. Hill announced his invention of a process of daguerreotyping in natural colours in his Treatise on Daguerreotype.[5] Sales of conventional uncoloured and hand-coloured daguerreotypes fell in anticipation of this new technology. Hill delayed publication of the details of his process for several years, however, and his claims soon came to be considered fraudulent. When he finally did publish his treatise in 1856, the process – whether bona fide or not – was certainly impractical and dangerous.[citation needed]

Hand colouring photographs continued up until the second world war when it was superseded by the new Kodachrome, but various kits were still being marketed up to the fifties. It was very popular in Japan where it was highly respected in the mid 19th Century.

Dyes and watercolours require similar preservation measures when applied to hand-coloured photographs. Like the photographs themselves, watercolours and dyes applied by hand to photographs are susceptible to light damage and must be housed in dark storage or displayed under dim, indirect light. Common particulate pollutants can cause watercolour pigments to fade, but the paint surface can be cleaned by lightly dusting with a soft brush to remove dirt.[23]

The use of crayon or pastel sticks of ground pigments in various levels of saturation is also considered a highly skilled colourist’s domain, as it requires knowledge of drawing techniques. Like oils, crayons and pastels generally obscure the original photograph, which produces portraits more akin to traditional paintings. Charcoal and coloured pencils are also used in hand-colouring of photographs and the terms crayon, pastel, charcoal, and pencil were often used interchangeably by colourists.

Simple conservation of these fragile materials can be carried out by the adventurous amateur. A hand-coloured photograph should be removed from the frame, retaining any original screws or nails holding the frame together. Wood panels, acidic cardboard slats, and acidic backing paper can be removed from the frame and mat-board and discarded, retaining any identifying information such as stamps or writing on the backing paper. The mat-board on which the photograph is mounted, even though acidic in nature, cannot be removed and replaced due to the intrinsic value of this original mounting. Often the artist’s signature and the title of the photograph are inscribed on the mat-board. The best preservation method to promote limited degradation is to store the photograph in a dry environment with low temperature, low relative humidity, and low light. The hand-coloured photograph should be replaced in its original frame, held in place with archival quality acid-free paper paperboard, and closed with the original nails or screws.[29]

References[edit] Further reading[edit] Baldwin, G. (1991). Looking at photographs: A guide to technical terms. Malibu, Calif: J. Paul Getty Museum in association with British Museum Press, p. 7, 35, 55, 58, 74, 80-82.

Jones, B. E. (1974). Encyclopedia of photography: With a new picture portfolio. New York: Arno Press, p. 132-134. Lavédrine, B. (2009). Photographs of the past: Process and preservation. Los Angeles: Getty Conservation Institute.

Miki, Tamon. (1997). Concerning the arrival of photography in Japan. The advent of photography in Japan. Tokyo: Tokyo Metropolitan Foundation for History and Culture, Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography, p.

 11. Nadeau, L. (1994). Encyclopedia of printing, photographic, and photomechanial processes: A comprehensive reference to reproduction technologies : containing invaluable information on over 1500 processes : Vols.

1 & 2 – A-Z. New Brunswick: Atelier Luis Nadeau, p. 33. Reilly, J. M. (2009). Care and identification of 19th century photographs. Rochester, NY: Eastman Kodak Co. Ruggles, M. (1985). Paintings on a photographic base.

Journal of the American Institute for Conservation 24(2), p. 92-103. External links[edit] Wikimedia Commons has media related to Hand-colored photographs. Brooklyn Museum Flickr Collection The George Eastman House Flickr Collection The Field Museum Flickr Collection Nagasaki University Library; Japanese Old Photographs in Bakumatsu-Meiji Period.

The National Media Museum Flickr Collection Collection of hand-colored photographs by Luis Marquez in the 1930s at the University of Houston Digital Library

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After hand colouring several 10×8’s I decided to go bigger and made myself a sharp 20×16 from a 5×4 neg. I then spent hours, carefully adding diluted dye with a small brush. As you can imagine, this is not a quick process. Working slowly and carefully on a large print takes a long time, but this is not a problem as I often find the experience very relaxing. The final result was very satisfying and I produced a few in succession that year. Two of them were reproduced as posters in the late eighties and sold all over the world.

Though the hand-colouring of photographs was introduced in Europe, the technique gained considerable popularity in Japan, where the practice became a respected and refined art form beginning in the 1860s. It is possible that photographer Charles Parker and his artist partner William Parke Andrew were the first to produce such works in Japan, but the first to consistently employ hand-colouring in the country were the photographer Felice Beato and his partner, The Illustrated London News artist and colourist Charles Wirgman.[6] In Beato’s studio the refined skills of Japanese watercolourists and woodblock printmakers were successfully applied to European photography, as evidenced in Beato’s volume of hand-coloured portraits, Native Types.

I scanned an old photo and printed it out onto a sheet of paper taken from a sketch pad. I then coloured it with dyes and when these had dried I added extra colour with pencils.

Hand coloured using diluted dyes from Staedtler brush pens Two Cows by Andrew Sanderson

As I stated earlier, dyes must be diluted before using. How diluted is a question that is hard to give a prescriptive answer to. Some colours can be very strong and intense, whilst others are weaker, -so the dilution is different. For instance: when red is diluted it often looks pink, so it may need to have a little yellow added. Greens and blues are generally the same when diluted but beware of using only one shade of green for foliage. Trees, grass and plants all have different greens.

Pencils are great for hand colouring but they need a matt paper. They also obscure the image if applied too vigorously, so photographs with a lot of detail a may be unsuitable. An application of dye, before applying pencils to rough paper will prevent the colour sitting in clumps in the surface of the print. A very good darkroom paper for this type of work is the ILFORD Multigrade Art 300 paper

1 History 1.1 Pre-1900 1.1.1 Japanese hand-coloured photographs (circa 1860–1899) 1.2 Post-1900 2 Materials and techniques 2.1 Dyes 2.2 Watercolours 2.3 Oils 2.4 Crayons and pastels 3 Preservation and storage 3.

1 Colouring materials 3.2 Auxiliary materials 4 Related techniques 5 See also 6 References 7 Further reading 8 External links

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Andrew is recognised as the leading practitioner of the paper negative process and one of the world’s best hand colourists. Examples of both of these techniques can be found in his third book; Hand Colouring and Alternative Darkroom Processes.

Before: A monochrome albumen print from a Stillfried & Andersen album; negative exposed between 1862 and 1885

Watercolour paint has the virtue of being more permanent than dyes, but is less transparent and so more likely to obscure details. Hand-colouring with watercolours requires the use of a medium to prevent the colours from drying with a dull and lifeless finish. Before the paint can be applied, the surface of the print must be primed so that the colours are not repelled. This often includes prepping the print with a thin coating of shellac, then adding grit before colouring.[14] Watercolour paint used in photographic hand-colouring consists of four ingredients: pigments (natural or synthetic), a binder (traditionally arabic gum), additives to improve plasticity (such as glycerine), and a solvent to dilute the paint (i.e. water) that evaporates when the paint dries. The paint is typically applied to prints using a soft brush. Watercolours often “leave a darker edge of color at the boundaries of the painted area.”[15] Since different pigments have varying degrees of transparency, the choice of colours must be considered carefully. More transparent pigments are preferred, since they ensure greater visibility of the photographic image.

Finally, have an old dish, or a white plastic margarine tub lid to mix your colours on and put a small droplet of washing up liquid on the side. A tiny amount of this will need to be added to each colour you mix up to ensure an even covering.

Around this time, I was becoming disillusioned with the quality of actual colour prints. I’d had some prints made for a college project and was less than excited about them. The sharpness that I could get from a medium format negative wasn’t there on these commercial prints and the colours were either garish or pale and inaccurate. Consequently, this made me more interested in hand colouring as a way of getting the sharpness and having a more accurate and controllable colour.

A tarnished hand-coloured daguerreotype (c. 1852) from the George Eastman House in Rochester, NY.[17]

Make sure you are well prepared before you begin your hand colouring.

Later practitioners of hand-colouring in Japan included the firm of Stillfried & Andersen, which acquired Beato’s studio in 1877 and hand-coloured many of his negatives in addition to its own.[8] Austrian Baron Raimund von Stillfried und Ratenitz, trained Japanese photographer and colorist Kusakabe Kimbei, and together they created hand-coloured images of Japanese daily life that were very popular as souvenirs.[6] Hand-coloured photographs were also produced by Kusakabe Kimbei, Tamamura Kozaburō, Adolfo Farsari, Uchida Kuichi, Ogawa Kazumasa and others. Many high-quality hand-coloured photographs continued to be made in Japan well into the 20th century.

Tinted photographs are made with dyed printing papers produced by commercial manufacturers. A single overall colour underlies the image and is most apparent in the highlights and mid-tones. From the 1870s albumen printing papers were available in pale pink or blue, and from the 1890s gelatin-silver printing-out papers in pale mauve or pink were available.

There were other kinds of tinted papers as well. Over time such colouration often becomes very faded. Toning refers to a variety of methods for altering the overall colour of the photographic image itself.

[30] Compounds of gold, platinum or other metals are used in combination with variations in development time, temperature and other factors to produce a range of tones, including warm browns, purples, sepias, blues, olives, red-browns and blue-blacks.

A well-known type of toning is sepia tone. Besides adding colour to a monochromatic print, toning often improves image stability and increases contrast. Retouching uses many of the same tools and techniques as hand-colouring, but with the intent of covering damage, hiding unwanted features, accentuating details, or adding missing elements in a photographic print.

In a portrait retouching could be used to improve a sitter’s appearance, for instance, by removing facial blemishes, and in a landscape with an overexposed sky, clouds could be painted into the image.

Water-colours, inks, dyes and chemical reducers are used with such tools as scalpels, pointed brushes, airbrushes and retouching pencils. The crystoleum, from “crystal” + “oleum” (oil), process was yet another method of applying colour to albumen prints.

[31] The print was pasted face down to the inside of a concave piece of glass. Once the adhesive (usually starch paste or gelatin) was dry, the paper backing of the print was rubbed away, leaving only the transparent emulsion on the glass.

The image was then coloured by hand. Another piece of glass was added to the back and this could also be coloured by hand. Both pieces of glass were bound together creating a detailed, albeit fragile, image.

See also[edit]

The idea of adding colour to a monochrome image by hand dates back to the beginning of photography. At this time it was the only way to get a colour photograph.

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Oil paint was often applied to tintypes, daguerreotypes, and ambrotypes.[15] As with all photographs, the materials respond negatively to direct light sources, which can cause pigments to fade and darken, and frequent changes in relative humidity and temperature, which can cause the oil paint to crack. For photographs with substantial damage, the expertise of an oil paintings conservator might be required for treatment.[24]

Oil paint contains particles of pigment applied using a drying oil, such as linseed oil. The conventions and techniques of using oils demands a knowledge of drawing and painting, so it is often used in professional practice. When hand-colouring with oils, the approach is more often to use the photographic image simply as a base for a painted image. The ability to create accurate oil portraits using a photographic base lent itself to art crime, with some artists claiming to paint traditional oil portraits (for a higher price) when actually tracing a photograph base in oils. Therefore, the choice of oil colours is governed by the relative transparency of the pigments to allow for authentication of the photographic base.[citation needed] It is necessary to size the print first to prevent absorption of the colours into the paper. In the past, photographic lantern slides were often coloured by the manufacturer, though sometimes by the user, with variable results.[16] Usually, oil colours were used for such slides, though in the collodion era – from 1848 to the end of the 19th century – sometimes watercolours were used as well.

Another notable early photographer in Japan to use hand-colouring was Yokoyama Matsusaburō. Yokoyama had trained as a painter and lithographer as well as a photographer, and he took advantage of his extensive repertoire of skills and techniques to create what he called shashin abura-e (写真油絵) or “photographic oil paintings”, in which the paper support of a photograph was cut away and oil paints then applied to the remaining emulsion.[7]

Crayon and pastel hand-coloured photographs have a powdery surface which must be protected for preservation purposes. Historically, crayon and pastel coloured photographs were sold in a frame under a protective layer of glass, which was often successful in reducing the amount of handling and smudging of the photograph surface.[26] Any conservation work on crayon or pastel colour-photographs must retain these original frames and original glass to maintain the authenticity and value of the object. If the photograph is separated from its original enclosure, it can be stored in an archival quality folder until it is framed or cased.

In an attempt to create more realistic images, photographers and artists would hand-colour monochrome photographs. The first hand-coloured daguerreotypes are attributed to Swiss painter and printmaker Johann Baptist Isenring, who used a mixture of gum arabic and pigments to colour daguerreotypes soon after their invention in 1839.[2] Coloured powder was fixed on the delicate surface of the daguerreotype by the application of heat. Variations of this technique were patented in England by Richard Beard in 1842 and in France by Étienne Lecchi in 1842 and Léotard de Leuze in 1845. Later, hand-colouring was used with successive photographic innovations, from albumen and gelatin silver prints to lantern slides[3] and transparency photography.

I first saw examples of matt prints coloured with pencils in 1978 and was immediately intrigued. The work was by a Yorkshire photographer called Porl Medlock. After seeing it I wanted to try hand colouring but didn’t want to copy Porl’s work directly so decided to use dyes rather than pencils. My first attempts were rather heavy handed, and I was plagued with patchy colours. To minimise this, I diluted the dyes and built up the colours gradually which definitely helped to even out the colour, although it still needed careful application. My first prints were quite small, but I soon progressed to doing everything at 10×8 and found this an ideal size to work with.

Hand-colouring remained the easiest and most effective method to produce full-colour photographic images until the mid-20th century when American Kodak introduced Kodachrome colour film.

One of the greatest difficulties with hand colouring is to achieve an even colour over a large area such as the sky. The technique that works for me is to wet the area thoroughly with a large brush with a little soap added to the water then dab off the excess water with paper towels. Immediately apply the colour, moving it around all the time with a large brush. Skin tones can also be tricky to get right. Have a colour image of skin nearby as a reference and use a spare print to try the colour before committing to the final one.

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Ideally, all photographic prints should be stored horizontally, although prints under 11″x14″ and on stable mounts can be safely stored vertically.[20] Prints should also be stored away from light and water sources in acid-free, lignin-free boxes manufactured using International Organization for Standardization (ISO) Standards 14523 and 10214.[21] Storage materials should also pass the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) Photographic Activity Test (PAT), or similar standards, to ensure archival quality.[18] If a photograph exhibits flaking or chipping emulsion it should not be stored in a plastic enclosure as static electricity could further damage the image.[22] Clean cotton gloves should be worn when handling photographs to prevent skin oils and salts from damaging the surfaces.

Hand-colouring should be distinguished from tinting, toning, retouching, and crystoleum.

Although colour photography using the three colour process was put forward just short of thirty years after the first photograph by Nicephore Niepce,  it was, in its early years, expensive and difficult to produce a colour image. Hand colouring became a practical way to give the impression of colour and everything from Daguerrotypes, salt prints and lantern slides were used to make this kind of image.

In the United States, many commercially sold, hand-coloured photographs were packaged and framed for retail sale.[28] Early 20th century hand-coloured photographs were often mounted on mat-board, placed behind a glass frame, and backed by wood panel slats, cardboard, or heavy paperboard. A backing sheet was often glued to the back of the mat-board. Unfortunately, the paper products produced and used during the late-19th and early-20th centuries are highly acidic and will cause yellowing, brittling and degradation of hand-coloured photographs. Metallic inclusions in the paper can also oxidize which may be the cause of foxing in paper materials. Wood panel slats will also off-gas causing further degradation of the photographs.

When handling cased photographs such as daguerreotypes, albumen prints, and tintypes, especially ones that have been hand-coloured, caution is required. They are fragile and even minimal efforts to clean them can irreparably damage the image. Hand-coloured cased photographs should be stored horizontally, in a single layer, preferably faced down. Cases can be wrapped with alkaline or buffered tissue paper. If the photograph has become separated from its case, a mat and backing board can be cut from alkaline buffered museum board. The mat is placed between the image and a newly cut glass plate while the backing board supports the image from behind. This “sandwich” is then sealed with Filmoplast tape. Commercial glass cleaners should not be used on new glass plates. Loose hand-coloured tintypes can be placed between mat boards. If bent, no attempt should be made to straighten them as this could cause the emulsion to crack and/or lift.[19]

All types of black and white (darkroom) prints will take coloured dyes and all matt prints will take pencils to differing degrees. The better the texture, the more the pencil has to abrade against. Inkjet prints may take dyes, though you would have to test your own papers, it’s an area I’ve only experimented with a little. The problem I had was that the papers were designed to be absorbent and they soaked up the dye as soon as the brush touched the paper. This meant that it was impossible to get any spread and the colouring was extremely patchy. If inkjet is your only option for producing prints, try printing onto ordinary cartridge paper and you should get around this problem.

He is an ILFORD Master Printer, and regularly gives workshops to university tutors, students and private individuals.

Work on plenty of old newspaper because dyes are usually very strong and will not wash out if spilt. You will need a jar of water for diluting, and for washing your brush between colours.  It is also useful to have a few pieces of kitchen towel nearby in case any excess dye needs dabbing off the print plus a clean piece under your hand to prevent greasy marks from your skin getting onto the print surface. Greasy areas will repel colour.

Typically, watercolours, oils, crayons or pastels, and other paints or dyes are applied to the image surface using brushes, fingers, cotton swabs or airbrushes. Hand-coloured photographs were most popular in the mid- to late-19th century before the invention of colour photography and some firms specialised in producing hand-coloured photographs.

Another hand-colour photographer, Luis Márquez (1899–1978), was the official photographer for and art adviser of the Mexican Pavilion at the 1939-40 World’s Fair. In 1937 he presented Texas Governor James V. Allred a collection of hand-coloured photographs. The National Autonomous University of Mexico in Mexico City has an extensive Luis Márquez photographic archive, as does the University of Houston in Texas.[12]

In general, the preservation of hand-coloured photographs is similar to that of colour and monochrome photography. Optimal storage conditions include an environmentally controlled climate with low relative humidity (approximately 30-40% RH), temperatures under 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius), and a low concentration of particulate pollution, such as sulfuric acid, nitric acid, and ozone.[18] The storage area must also be clean and free of pests and mould. Because hand-coloured photographs, like colour photographs, are more sensitive to light and UV radiation, storage should be in a dark location. The storage area should be secure and monitored for internal threats – such as change in temperature or humidity due to HVAC malfunction, as well as external threats, such as theft or natural disaster. A disaster plan should be created and maintained for all materials.

Film colorization Film tinting Handschiegl colour process Photochrom(e) Photograph conservation Photo manipulation Preservation (library and archival science) Selective colour

Hand-coloured cabinet photograph (c. 1875) from the State Library of New South Wales. The photograph is mounted to a paper backing sheet and shows evidence of degradation.[27]

Basic dyes are used in the hand-colouring of photographs. Dyes are soluble colour substance, either natural or synthetic, in an aqueous solution, as opposed to pigments which are generally insoluble colour substance in an aqueous suspension. Aniline dyes, the first synthetically produced dyes originally used for the dyeing of textiles, were first used to dye albumen prints and glass transparency photographs in Germany in the 1860s.[13] When hand-colouring with dyes, a weak solution of dye in water is preferred, and colours are often built up with repeated washes rather than being applied all at once. The approach is to stain or dye the print rather than to paint it, as too much paint will obscure photographic details. Blotting paper is used to control the amount of dye on the surface by absorbing any excess.

Between 1915 and 1925 hand-coloured photographs were popular among the middle classes in the United States, Canada, Bermuda and the Bahamas as affordable and stylish wedding gifts, shower gifts, holiday gifts, friendship gifts, and vacation souvenirs. With the start of the Great Depression in 1929, and the subsequent decrease in the numbers of the middle class, sales of hand-coloured photographs sharply diminished.[10]

Hand Colouring black and white prints Posted On 28th March 2017 To Expert Series

The so-called golden age of hand-coloured photography in the western hemisphere occurred between 1900 and 1940.[9] The increased demand for hand-coloured landscape photography at the beginning of the 20th century is attributed to the work of Wallace Nutting. Nutting, a New England minister, pursued hand-coloured landscape photography as a hobby until 1904, when he opened a professional studio. He spent the next 35 years creating hand-coloured photographs, and became the best-selling hand-coloured photographer of all time.[10]

One of the UK’s leading Photographers and a master printer, Andrew has written the definitive book on Night Photography: A Practical Manual; the highly acclaimed Home Photography: Inspiration on Your Doorstep and is a regular contributor to photographic magazines in the U.K.

Good brushes are essential. Old, tatty brushes will not give you control over the spread of the colour and your work will look messy. If you are working at 10×8 size then you will need a number 1 for fine work, a number 4 for most areas and a number 8 for large areas such as sky. Winsor & Newton Galeria are ideal.

In some cases it may be necessary to contact a professional conservator. In the United States, the American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works (AIC) provides a Find a Conservator tool that helps identify local conservation services. In the United Kingdom and Ireland, the Conservation Register provides a similar tool that searches by specialization, business, and surname. To locate other conservation services internationally, Conservation OnLine (CoOL) Resources for Conservation Professionals provides a tool that searches by country.

In the mid-seventies, it was revived in the UK as a bit of a novelty and appeared in some fashion work and also on record sleeves and book covers. David Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust album has a hand coloured image on the cover, as do many others from around that time by Led Zeppelin, Roxy Music, AC-DC, The New York Dolls, George Benson and Dr John.

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