Try Long Exposure. Long exposure shots may work really well in monochrome photography, especially where there’s moving water or clouds. During the exposure the highlights of the water, for example, are recorded across a wider area than they would with a short exposure and this could help enhance tonal contrast. The blurring of the movement also adds textural contrast with any solid objects in the frame. If compulsory , use a neutral density filter such as Lee Filters’ Big Stopper or Little Stopper to decrease exposure and extend shutter speed (by 10 and 4 stops respectively). typically , when exposures extend farther than re 1/60 sec a tripod is required to keep the camera still and avoid blurring. It’s also advisable to use a remote release and mirror lock-up to minimise vibration and produce super-sharp images.
Dodge and Burn. Dodging and burning is a plan that comes from the traditional darkroom and is usually used to burn in or darken highlights and hold back (brighten) shadows. Photoshop’s Dodge and Burn tools allow a level of control that film photographers should only thought of taking a degree of because you should target the highlights, shadows or mid-tones with both. This means that you could use the Burn tool to darken highlights when they are too bright, or the Dodge tool to brighten them to grow local contrast. It’s a great rule of sharing a sense of superior sharpness and enhancing texture. Plus, because you could set the opacity of the tools, you could build up her effect gradually so the impact is crafty and there are no hard edges.
Use Filters. Graduated neutral density (AKA ND grad) and polarizing filters are purely as advantageous in monochrome photography as they are in colour. In fact, because they manipulate image contrast they are arguably more useful . An ND grad is collaborative when you require to retain detail in a bright sky while a polarizing filter may be used to reduce reflections and boost contrast. Alternatively, appraise taking two or more shots with diverse exposures to create a high dynamic range (HDR) composite. Don’t be anxious to use a ND grad with a standard neural density filter if the sky is brighter than the foreground in a long exposure shot. Coloured filters, which are an essential tool for monochrome film photographers, may also be advantageous for manipulating contrast in digital images. They work by darkening objects of her opposite colour while lightening objects of her own. An orange filter, for example, will darken the blue of the sky while a green one will lighten foliage.
Take Control. Although coloured filters could still be used to manipulate contrast when shooting digital black and white images, it’s more prominent to save this work until the processing stage. Until a some years ago Photoshop’s Channel Mixer was the favorite means of turning colour images monochrome, but now Adobe Camera Raw has more strong tools (in the HSL/Grayscale tab) that allow you to adjust the brightness of eight individual colours that make up the image. It’s possible to adjust single of these colours to make it anything from white to black with the sliding control. However, it’s important to keep an eye on the whole image when adjusting a particular colour as crafty gradations can become unnatural looking. And adjusting the brightness of a red or rosy shirt with the red sliding control, for instance , will have an impact on the model’s skin, especially the lips. The Levels and Curves controls may also be used to manipulate tonal range and contrast, but the HSL/Grayscale controls allow you to create separation between objects of the same brightness but with diverse colours.
Shoot RAW + JPEG. The greatest monochrome conversions are set foot on by editing raw files which have the full colour information, but if you shoot raw and JPEG files simultaneously and set the camera to its monochrome picture Style/Picture Control/Film Simulation mode you get an indication of how the image will look in black and white. As numerous photographers struggle to visualise a scene in black and white, these monochrome modes are an invaluable tool that will help with composition and scene assessment. many cameras are also capable of producing decent in-camera monochrome images these days and it’s worth experimenting with image parameters (usually contrast, sharpness, filter effects and toning) to find a look that you like. Because compact routine cameras and compact cameras show the scene seen by the sensor with camera settings applied, users of these cameras are able to preview the monochrome image in the electronic viewfinder or on rear screen before taking the shot. DSLR users may also do this if they activate her camera’s live impression method , but the usually slower responses mean that numerous will find it preferable or check the image on the screen post-capture.
Look for Contrast, Shape and Texture. The complimentary and opposing colours that bring a colour image to life are all reduced to black and white or shades of grey in a monochrome image and you have to look for tonal contrast to make a shot stand out. In colour photography, for example, your eye would immediately be drawn to a red object on a green background, but in monochrome photography these two areas are likely to have the same brightness, so the image looks flat and lackluster straight from the camera. providentially , it’s possible to work adjust the brightness of these two colours discretely to introduce some contrast. However, a great starting point is to look for scenes with tonal contrast. There are always exceptions, but as a general rule look for scenes that contain some forceful blacks and whites. This may be achieved by the light or by the brightness (or tone) of the objects in the scene as well as the exposure settings that you use. The brightness of the bark of a silver birch tree for example, can inject some contrast (and interest) in to a woodland scene. Setting the exposure for these brighter areas also makes the shadows darker, so the highlights stand out even more. Look for shapes, patterns and textures in a scene and move around to find the best composition.
Related Images of New York Black And White Photography With Color
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The Guggenheim Museum. This image was taken in NYC in 2009. The picture shows the outside of the famous Frank Lloyd Wright Building.
Whilst much of New York has undergone redevelopment and gentrification, there are still areas where the old buildings remain.
New York black and white photography Images of Manhattan, Brooklyn and the City of New York
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A close up of The Brooklyn Bridge, New York. This photograph shows the detail of the bridge against the bright illuminations of downtown Manhattan
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Somewhere in the middle of Manhattan. This image was taken in 2009.
This image shows the world famous Brooklyn Bridge with the Manhattan skyline at night. It was taken in 2009.
Originally named the Fuller Building, this important early skyscraper stands 87m tall. It is an iconic New York building.
Travelling, NYC. This photograph shows tourists in the Big Apple.
A shot of the lower part of Manhattan from Brooklyn. This photograph shows the famous bridge and the skyline.
An interesting persepective on The Brooklyn Bridge, New York. This bridge has allowed Manhattan islanders to reach Brooklyn for over 130 years.
Manhattan Bridge, NYC. This iconic bridge is often overlooked in favour of its big brother. It remains an important landmark in the city.
A view looking South over the city at night. From here, you can see the Empire State Building and the lights of the city stretching in the direction of La Guardia.
The Chrysler Building. Built in 1930, and for a little while the tallest building in the world, this Art Deco designed wonder remains one of the best designed skyscrapers in the world.
A photograph of Times Square, NYC. This image was taken in 2009.
Detail of the Empire State Building, New York. The Empire State building is 443 metres high and dominates the skyline of Manhattan.
Times Square, New York. This famous square is located at the junction of Broadway and Seventh Avenue in New York.
The famous Brooklyn Bridge in NYC. This photograph shows the 1825m long bridge with the lights of the CBD behind.
Fulton Fish Market. This photograph was taken on Manhattan Island in 2009.
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Possibly one of the most famous squares in the world. Times Square has appeared in countless movies and books.
St Patrick’s Cathedral. Located on Fifth Avenue, this Cathedral is not far from the Rockefeller centre.
The legendary 42nd Street. World famous for its fabulous theaters.
An abstract image of The Guggenheim Museum. This image captures the simplicity of this wonderful design.
The facade of the famous Grand Central Station, scene of many films and tv programmes.
Manhattan Bridge, New York. This bridge is often overshadowed by its close neighbour but it is still an important part of the skyline of NYC.
The Empire State Building. This world famous landmark was constructed in 1929, but not finished until a few years later. It replaced the Chrysler Building as the tallest building in the world.
With a population of over 8 million people, it could be argued that New York is the most important city in America. The photography showcased here contains images from Central Park, Times Square, Statue of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge, Manhattan and more.
New York is one of the most famous cities on the planet. This gallery tries to capture the excitement, energy, life and hustle and bustle of the city. A destination popular with film makers and authors alike, New York is like no other.
Brooklyn Bridge and Manhattan as seen from Brooklyn. The Bridge was built in 1870 and links the island of Manhattan with Brooklyn.
The millions of lights that make up the city of New York. This image shows the energy of the Big Apple.
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